Asado Part I

Asado, Anyone?

Today, I’m going to talk about asado – and more specifically, Argentine asado.  Asado is essentially the Spanish word, as used in South America, for BBQ – but it’s really more than that.  For me, asado is a celebration of friends and family around a BBQ that is prepared in a distinctly Argentinian style.

I won’t delve too much into the history of asado (well, ok, just a little).  It developed in Argentina in the mid-19^th century on the Pampa – the large region in Argentina comprised of rich lowlands and prairies.  It was the perfect environment to raise cattle, and by the mid-1800’s the pampas of Argentina were filled with estancias (ranches) and cattle.  Beef became one of Argentina’s primary exports, and the gaucho (horseman) became a national symbol of Argentina.  Naturally, the gauchos worked up quite an appetite on the plains – and so satisfied that hunger with what they had on hand -quebracho (a type of slow burning wood available on the pampas, known for producing little smoke) and beef or lamb.  So the cooking techniques were originally developed by the gauchos, and then over time these were brought to the more populated areas, and eventually the asado became a regular celebration for family and friends.  The roots of the gaucho asados, however, are still integral to the event – slow cooked beef or lamb; the use of the entire animal; a focus on the elemental taste of the animal (so no sauces, and no smoke!); and very simple accompaniments.

My history with asado began about 6 years ago, when I met my wife.  I had never been to Argentina before (Brazil was as far south as I had been), but soon we had made plans to visit her family in Buenos Aires.  As I came to learn, there is always an excuse to have an asado….and getting introduced to the Yanqui (a specific kind of gringo!) was a great excuse to have an asado!  It was quickly organized.  Reuben, my wife’s sister’s ex-husband, would be the Asador, a role he typically assumed for the family asados.  The Asador is the grillmaster – he selects the meat; he prepares the grill; he tends the grill; and he serves the meat.  It is, as I found, an exhausting job…but one with a lot of pride and satisfaction.  The neophyte Yanqui offered to help – I wanted to learn more about grilling the Argentina way.  After all, I had grilled and BBQ’d my whole life – should be a simple task.  Reuben arrived carrying two enormous bags, obviously very heavy.  I did some mental calculations, and immediately assumed he had entirely miscalculated – there were going to be about 10 people at the asado (including a few children), and he had what appeared to be about 12-15 pounds of meat.  Well, I thought – perhaps they like leftovers (I now know that Uruguay and Argentina are #1 and #2 in the world for annual per capita beef consumption, at about 120 lbs per person!)   I went upstairs to change for the “party”, and then came down to help Reuben.  He took one look at me and shook his head “No…is not good” he said as he pointed to my crisp Polo shirt – ”Necesitas cambiar tu camisa”.  My shirt?  I thought it looked pretty good.  ”No – como yo”, he said, pointing to his shirt.  Ok – I went back and changed into an old t-shirt I had brought for the beach… a bit overkill for grilling, I thought – but I followed instructions.  I was soon to learn that: (a) it gets hot in Buenos Aires – despite the name, there is often no breeze; (b) the asado is a long affair – perhaps 4-5 hours; (c) the Asador (and his helpers) are working the entire time; and (d) I sweat a lot!

Over the course of the next 4 hours, I learned how to prepare the meats; I learned how to prepare and tend the grill; and I learned how not to drink Fernet.  Fernet, or Fernet Branca, is an Amaro – an Italian herbal liqueur.  One thing you quickly learn about Argentina – there is a strong cultural tie to Italy.  More than 60% of the population has some Italian descent, and I would say it’s probably more than 80% in Buenos Aires itself.  Somehow, over time, Fernet has become the drink of choice for the Asador.  Not straight, mind you – mixed with Coke.  A big glass of Fernet and Coke over ice.  I came down in my grubby t-shirt, walked into the back yard by the parrilla (grill), and felt the wave of sticky heat hit me – it wasn’t the grill (by itself) – it was one of those hot, humid days Buenos Aires is known for.  Reuben immediately handed me a large cold glass of Fernet and Coke, and then turned to prepare the grill.  I took a sip…not bad, a little herbal, but very refreshing.  I quickly downed the entire glass.  I thought – what a great start to my Asador experience!  Reuben turned back and his eyes widened as he saw me finishing the Fernet.  “Que pasa?”, I asked.  He laughed and showed me that you actually just sip the Fernet slowly over time.  While not apparent to me then, I soon learned that Fernet packs an alcoholic wallop – gulping it as I had was a big mistake.

By the end of the asado, very little meat remained – when you dispense with heavy starchy sides, and focus on the meat, it’s amazing how much beef you can eat!  I was in love – what a celebration!  And I learned about the importance of the Asador – when the asado is finished, everyone stands and claps for the Asador – “Aplauso!”.  It was exhausting work, and my shirt was destroyed.  But I was on my way to learning everything I could about asado, and how I could replicate this back home.

 

The asado has some similarities, and many differences, with a typical US backyard BBQ.  As a way of introducing everyone to asado, let me outline these:

Similarities

• It revolves around grilled meats
• It involves family and friends
• Alcohol is consumed
• It’s usually hot out
• It’s usually very casual

Differences

Grill – The type of grill used in an Argentine asado is a parrilla.  It’s very different than the typical American grill.  The grilling surface (grate) is typically a collection of v-shaped channels that collect fat and move it away from the grill – you don’t want fat dripping on the fire.  The grate is permanently tilted at a very slight angle, and the entire grate can be moved up and down by means of a wheel connected by a chain.  The general idea is that you control the heat by moving the grate up and down…and you keep fat from dripping on the coals.  The bottom of the grill is typically lined with firebricks.  The grill is rectangular, and enclosed on three sides.  The side of the grill contains a brasero – this is a cage which contains the lump charcoal/wood that is used.  The fire is started in the brasero; hot coals drop to the bottom, and then are raked across to the firebox.  The old traditional method of the gauchos was to do asado a la cruz – this would be where you wire an entire side of beef or a lamb to a metal cross, then jam the cross at a slight angle adjacent to a bed of coals, and let it cook slowly.  This is still done in the provinces, but not as much in the cities.  The parrilla evolved as a way of replicating the original asado a la cruz – to cook the meat slowly, over a long period of time, with little smoke and no flames touching the meat.

Fuel – Never gas!  An asado is always done with either some type of charcoal,or wood.  Generally, people use a lump wood charcoal called quebracho.  You can buy Argentinian quebracho on Amazon – something that my Argentine friends and family find amazing.  And while they don’t want smoked meats (and definitely don’t want to see flare-ups/flames or smoke), I do find that there is a very slight woody flavor imparted by using the quebracho.  However, only very slight – the idea is to get the full flavor of the beef or lamb.

Meat – ok, here is where things get very interesting.  First, the variety – there are usually at least 3-4 types of meat grilled, and often more, at an asado – vs. the typical American BBQ which may do 1 or 2 different meats.  Typically, the grilling starts with several achuras (offal).  Now don’t get put off!  For me, this is one of the best parts of the asado.  The achuras typically include mollejas (sweetbreads…this is the thymus gland), rinones (kidneys), and chinchulines (small intestines).  There are very specific ways of prepping, and grilling, each of these (I won’t go into details on this) – but generally the idea is that each are grilled well done and crispy, and served with lots of lemon.  These are my favorite part of an asado – and while many Americans would initially balk at the thought of eating these parts, I encourage folks to try them.  Next come sausages and cheese– generally chorizo (however, the Argentine chorizo is very, very different than Mexican or Spanish – they are generally pork, mild, not smoked, not highly spiced, and not pre-cooked or dried), morcilla (blood sausage), and sometimes provoleta (a wheel of provolone cheese seasoned with herbs that is grilled crispy on the outside, oozing inside).  Finally you have the beef, lamb, or even pork.  And here you have many different cuts, some familiar to Americans, and some not.  They could include Bife de Chorizo (essentially NY Strip); Ojo de Bife (Ribeye); Entrana (skirt steak); Vacio (a type of flank steak); Tira de asado (short ribs that are cross cut); Colita de Cuadril (similar to tri-tip); Matambre (another flank steak); and Lomo (tenderloin).  One side note – most Argentinian beef is grass fed, range raised cattle.  It does taste different (in my opinion, more beefy). Unfortunately, due to trade restrictions, we cannot get Argentinian beef in the US.  My suggestion is to just find a good butcher who can provide these various cuts – and buy the best beef you can afford.

Doneness/Texture/Flavor – this is a broad category, but an important distinction.  In the US, we tend to like BBQ that is strongly flavored of other things – we like sauces (sweet; smokey; spicey; vinegary; etc.); we like smoke; we like dry rubs; we like marinades; we like herbs.  In an asado, you are really going strictly for the flavor of the meat – for beef, you want beefy…for lamb, you want lamby….for pork, you want porky.  Very technical terms, I know.  But Argentinians rarely put sauce on their meat when cooking, and rarely smoke their meat.  They don’t use dry rubs; they don’t generally use herbs.  They use primarily salt (sal parilla, a large grain salt similar to kosher salt)…the meat…and that’s it.  Sometimes they bathe the meat in salmuera when grilling – salmuera is essentially a brine that is sprinkled on the meat to keep it moist.  The meat is generally cooked long, slow, and for most, to a medium/medium well level.  This ties into texture – in the US, we typically value tenderness – this is why filet mignon is the most prized (and expensive) cut here.  But in Argentina, it’s all about the flavor.  Its ok for meat to have some texture (to not be soft) – not that you want it dry/overdone – but softer texture at the expense of flavor is a big no-no.  I have rarely seen lomo (tenderloin) at an Argentine asado, because it lacks flavor – when it is on the asado, it’s usually for the children or elderly!

Pacing – in the US, we generally get all of the sides prepared while we are grilling, finish the meat, and then all sit down all at once to enjoy the BBQ – maybe a 1-2 hour process at most.  An asado is a wholly different animal.  The asado is a 4-5 hour process of socializing and eating.  There is no “dinner time” so to speak.  It generally starts with the picada – an appetizer course set out on a table, usually consisting of various salume and cheeses, along with other small items (olives, etc – think antipasto, as the picada is really Italian influenced).  I have found that picada presentation is important – there is an art to preparing a picada with geometric precision.  The picada is set out, along with wine/beer/etc.  Once the picada is finished, a few cold salads are put out (remember, it’s hot in Argentina, thus the focus on cold salads).  Very rarely will asado’s include any type of starch (although you might see it in an ensalada rusa – essentially a cold potato salad with carrots, potatoes, and peas).  Usually it will be just a few types of green salad – perhaps a palmitos salad; ensalada mixta (lettuce, onion and tomatoes) simple sliced tomatoes and onion; or sliced avocado (called
palta in Argentina).  The focus is on the meat, so the salads are just to provide a little contrast to the meat.  Now comes the meat.  The Asador is, in part, an expert on timing – when to put things on the grill, when to take them off.  The meal is eaten gradually, over time, as things are ready to come off the grill.  So first, probably the achuras.  He will take them off as they are ready, cut them, then pass the platter around for everyone to take a bite or two on their plate.  This is done while talking and drinking.  Next the chorizos and morcilla.  As other things are at their peak of readiness, the Asador will take those off, cut them up, and pass them around.  This continues for several hours – the Asador working the entire time.  The Asador’s meal consists of all the little bites he takes to ensure that the meat is ready.  It’s a great way to enjoy food at its peak of readiness, rather than compromise so that everyone sits down and eats at the same time.  It also allows for a less hurried pace and more time socializing.

Accompaniments – I’ve already mentioned the picada and the salads.  Now let’s talk about chimichurri.  I’ve read so many things about chimichurri in the US that are wrong.  I’ve read that Argentinians put it on everything – wrong.  I’ve read that it is the ketchup of Argentina – completely wrong (ketchup is the ketchup of Argentina).  I’ve read that Argentinians use it like Pesto – yuck!! I’ve never seen an Argentinian use chimichurri on their pasta!  I’ve even read that Argentinians marinate their meat in chimichurri – also completely wrong.  I guess people are fascinated with this condiment, and so the stories take on a life of their own.  Essentially, chimichurri is a condiment made with parsley, oregano, garlic, salt, pepper, oil and vinegar – at its basic.  Everyone has their own little twist – and frequently it’s made with a mild pepper we can’t get in the US – aji molido.  The only thing I really like chimichurri on is a choripan (which may be the subject of another blog post).  For meat, I prefer (and many Argentinians prefer) salsa criolla.  Salsa criolla is something between a condiment and a salad.  In most restaurants, it’s more like a condiment – slightly more liquid.  At home, we make it with more substance.  It is very simple – diced fresh tomato; diced onion; diced bell pepper; oil and vinegar; salt.  You can put very tiny amounts of the vegetables and more of the oil/vinegar, and make it more like a little sauce; or you can, as we do, make it with slightly more vegetables so it is thicker – we put a spoon or two beside our meat to give a little bit of piquancy to the bite.  Whether its chimichurri or salsa criolla – a little bit goes a long way.  You don’t slather these on them meat.  Just a tiny amount like you would use salt or pepper.  Or, just use nothing at all – the beef, lamb, or pork flavor should stand on its own.

Drinks – well, in this regard there is really no difference than an American BBQ – people drink what they like.  In Argentina, it tends to be beer or wine.  While the craft beer movement has taken root strongly in Buenos Aires, I really prefer Quilmes, more or less the national beer.  It’s a light German lager – some people may think it’s a bit bland, but on a hot day, its wonderful.  But for me, an asado isn’t an asado without a good Malbec.  Argentina produces some amazing wines, particularly in Mendoza, the Napa of Argentina.  We are somewhat limited on what we can get in the US with respect to Malbecs.  I often think some of the best stay right there in Argentina.  Like we do with beef, Argentina imposes trade restrictions on imported wine – so while you can get great Argentinian wine there, its difficult to find a good selection of wines from other countries.  Therefore, I think they save their best for themselves (as they should!)  Here, I would suggest Catena Malbec – from what is arguably the most venerated wine family in Argentina.

So, there you have it – your asado primer, so to speak.  If you want to learn a little more about Asado, I encourge you to visit Locos x el Asado.  This is a great website, which will have links to videos that feature Luciano “Laucha” Lucetti, the chief Asador.  His videos are fun and informative, and they have both youtube and facebook sites.  Yes, they are in spanish – but even if you don’t speak spanish, you’ll understand his videos.  For those that are really interested in doing an authentic asado at home, I plan to do another blog post on the logistics.  Obviously, it would be rare for anyone to have an Argentinian parrilla at home – but I can get you to a close approximation with equipment easily obtained in the US.  The important thing is that an asado is just an excuse to have a fantastic social interaction with your friends and family – to live and be in the moment.  Too often we rely on digital interaction in our world (and ironically, that includes this blog).  But an asado, or BBQ, or any other similar gathering should be a slow and savored thing – a shared experience in person.  Hope you enjoyed the post – always live for today.