Midcoast Maine Reviews – Volume I (Leave the lobster, take the fish!)

Wow, back to back blog posts!  That’s what happens when your wife is away and you’re all alone.  No, this isn’t a pity party – but Paula is in Argentina and I have some time on my hands.  Last weekend was the Memorial Day weekend – for many, the beginning of summer.  Knowing Paula was going to be gone, I organized a little guys weekend at La Escondida del Mar (our little slice of paradise in Maine).  That’s a tough weekend to have a guy’s weekend – too many family gatherings – but I guess Ron and Joe’s respective wives went soft on them and gave the green light (thank you Jeanine and Cindy!).  The plan was to meet in NYC Thursday night and drive up very early on Friday morning.  The weather forecast fluctuated all week, but Friday was shaping up to be a warm day.  After being dormant for 2 years, I had had the pool rehabilitated (and returned it to a saltwater pool), and newly opened that week.  Come hell or high water (or cold air temps), I was going to use the pool at least once on the weekend.  We made it up to Maine by 11 am, and quickly decamped to the pool.  Ed, my pool guy, had planned to set the pool temp at 80.  80!??  Far too warm for my cheap pocket as I thought about the propane bills from the previous winter.  75 sounds pretty good. No…75 isn’t good…75, to skin temperature at 96, is pretty damn cold!  In any case, after the first shock of cold, the pool felt nice, and we spent a lazy afternoon listening to music and drinking beer.  The three of us had different tastes in music, with some overlap.  I am firmly rooted in the 70’s (Zeppelin; Floyd; etc.); Joe was stuck in the 80’s (Style Council; Tears for Fears); and Ron is our festival guy (Umphrey’s McGee; Avett Bros; Government Mule).  Having one Bluetooth wireless speaker complicated things, and there was frequent hijacking of the Bluetooth connection – but I came out with a new appreciation for Paul Weller and Umphrey’s McGee (go download the Zonkey album, now!).  Anyway, despite the weather turning cool on us (we went from pool and beers to fleeces and bourbon by the firepit in 24 hours), it was a great weekend of fun, and resulted in my first explorations of the Boothbay area, and a few small reviews for those that may be enticed to come here.

Before I get into the (mini) reviews, I do want to touch on the subject of trust.  Maine people are an interesting study in contrasts.  While much has been written about the taciturn Mainer who doesn’t trust people “from away” – we have been pleasantly surprised by the trust extended to us in our encounters with most businesses here.  As some of you probably know, a second house isn’t easy to maintain, especially getting one that wasn’t used much and had some undiscovered maintenance issues.  As a result, there are a lot of on-going needs (dock service; landscaping; pool; snow plowing; etc.) and the inevitable unexpected issues (appliance repair; HVAC repair; etc.).  We’re used to arranging for service, and providing the obligatory credit card to either pay, or guarantee payment – but it seems that here in Maine, trust still exists.  I can’t tell you how many of our service providers have just asked for a billing address – no credit card needed, I’ll just send you a bill!  It even extends to retail business – I’ll talk in a bit about Barb Scully’s Lobster and Oyster stand at her house – hundreds (probably thousands) of dollars of oysters and lobsters open to the public, with a prominent sign that indicates if she isn’t around, take what you want and leave the money – the honor system!!  This morning (in NYC), as I dreamed wistfully about how trusting Mainers were…I was jarred awake at 6am by my cell phone – it was the water truck company (my pool needed to be topped off) asking if there was anyone home (in Maine) since they don’t take credit cards, prefer cash, and wanted payment before delivering the water!  Ahhh, back to reality!

As I said, the weekend was good fun, and we took the opportunity to explore a bit.  First stop, on Friday afternoon, was to two businesses, side by side, in Damariscotta that I’d like to give a shout out to.  Fisherman’s Catch, located on Main St. just as you cross the bridge from Newcastle, is a nice little seafood purveyor.  It’s a small shop, but fully stocked with plenty of fresh lobsters; clams; mussels; oysters; scallops; fish – all fresh, and most locally caught.  It’s my “go to” local seafood seller, and I highly recommend it.  If you’ve read this blog before, you might have caught my post on Oysters, where I speak prominently about oyster farming in Midcoast Maine, particularly on the Damariscotta.  I am thrilled to be living so close to such an amazing fishery, and Fisherman’s Catch always has several varieties to choose from.  Heath Reed is the owner – always a smile, always helpful. We ended up picking up 3 dozen Norumbegas – oysters so fresh I have no doubt they were harvested that morning – and 4 pound of Littleneck clams for a spaghetti vongole we planned on for Saturday night.  Note that they will also ship, overnight, anywhere in the U.S.  Right next door is Riverside Butcher.  August Avantaggio opened the shop a couple of years ago, and I’m happy to see it seems to be thriving.  Oftentimes specialty shops like this (especially in small towns) don’t survive.  Riverside is a full-service butcher shop – they always have amazing meat and other items (including some non-traditional, but wonderful, empanadas), and what they don’t have on display, they can get, or they can cut.  On a previous visit I was pleasantly surprised to find that August was familiar with Argentine Asado and could provide the types of cuts I was looking for to supply the asado.  I highly recommend this shop as well. The similarities in both shops highlights everything you want in a business: (1) they are knowledgeable about their product; (2) their prices are reasonable; (3) their quality is outstanding; (4) they are always ready with a smile.  These are the types of shops we all need to support – and they both have my business! Between the oysters and steaks, we were set – and I was able to get both without walking 5 steps between them!

The next place I want to review was, for us, the highlight of our trip.  We woke up Saturday to a 30-degree temperature drop (common, unfortunately, at this time of year in Maine), and overcast skies.  There would be no swimming today.  Well – didn’t matter…just made the morning coffee that more pleasant.  Let me digress here for a second on coffee.  I started out my adult life hating coffee, but soon progressed to drinking a milked up, sugared up beverage that I’m sure was flavored with a touch of coffee.  Over time, the proportion of milk and sugar decreased, until by my early 30’s, I was drinking it like my father used to – black.  By my late 30’s I was beginning my transition…to full on coffee snob.  Starbucks was my entrée.  This continued through my 40’s, progressing well beyond Starbucks (too pedestrian) – when I first met Paula I was hitting up Stumptown on 29th and Broadway with my pal (Hi Jim!) once a week, parsing through all of the beans to get the freshest, and only using a burr grinder on them.  And then something happened.  It was a Sunday morning…and I discovered with horror that I had run out of Stumptown beans.  It was really early (another sad by-product of getting older – you can’t sleep), and the only place open was a corner bodega, where I found this – a little red tub of Folgers Classic Roast.  What!  Was this what I was reduced to?  However, desperation for my morning brew overcame my disgust.  I dug out the old Mr. Coffee machine we had in the closet, and brewed up a cup (thankfully, it had a “bold” setting).  And to my surprise – it wasn’t bad.  In fact, it was pretty darn good.  I managed to get some of my precious Stumptown beans the next day, but not wanting to waste the tub of Folgers (I am an honorary Yorkshireman), I began blending it in with the Stumptown.  And so, I devolved, so to speak, gradually turning a 90/10 blend of Stumptown/Folgers into a 10/90…and eventually 100%, full on Folgers.  If this keeps up, I can envision returning to milk and sugar in my 70’s, and by my 80’s I will be back, once again, to diapers and hating coffee (no…just kidding about the diapers!).  Ok, where was I?  Oh, yeah coffee.  Coffee on a cold Maine morning is wonderful.  Unfortunately, Ron, while putting on a good game face, is still in the coffee snob portion of his life…Joe seems to be transitioning, and I think he was fine with the Folgers.  Ok, where were we?  Oh yeah – the highlight of the weekend.  I’ve completely wasted this paragraph, so time to start another.

Bet’s Famous Fish Fry is a local fish shack in Boothbay.  If you drive down Rt. 27 to Boothbay, you can’t miss it – just before Mr. Coulombe’s new roundabout, on the left –  a pretty little shack with picnic tables, and lots of people.  Now, this isn’t Red’s Eats.  You won’t find a lobster roll here, which is why, I suspect, that it seems to be more of a local place than a tourist destination.  For me (and I’m guessing for the locals), I hope it stays that way (so why are you writing about it on a blog????  Because it’s my blog, that’s why!).  Tourists come to Maine and they want lobster rolls.  I can hear many people now “Oh fish sandwich…big deal – what’s so great about that?”.  It is a big deal.  Bet’s has, hand’s down, the best fish sandwich you will have…anywhere…ever…period.  First let me comment on the portions.  You approach the window and see the menu – fried fish, several different ways.  And not just any fish – fresh haddock.  Ok, we all agreed – fish sandwiches all around.  3 fish sandwiches, please.  “You want the whole or half sandwich?”.  Oh – come on!  Three big guys, are you kidding – whole please.

Half Portion!!

She could tell we were neophytes.  “It’s a whole pound of fish on the sandwich – you sure?”.  By now our confidence was starting to crack…a whole pound?  We looked at each other and gave her a very shaky nod yes.  Sensing our uncertainty, she said “Let me show you a whole sandwich” – as our eyes followed her hand, we were in awe at the enormity!  “Half sandwiches, please” we quickly said in unison.  No time to be brash – an unfinished sandwich would shatter our reputations.  She smiled knowingly, took our money (cash only please), and we wandered over to the picnic tables to wait.  The sandwiches come with your choice of homemade tartar sauce, or homemade dill sauce.  As newbies, we asked for both (good choice, as we were to find – both are fantastic).  No fast food here – each order is cooked up fresh.  You can tell just from the fragrance of frying fish that they are serious about the food here – the oil is fresh.  One thing that always puts me off (and is immediately noticeable by the odor) is when a place stretches between oil changes on its fryer.  Not here – only the clean smell of fresh oil.  We waited about 10 minutes, and the sandwiches arrived.  The half sandwiches.  Unbelievable!  The fish is battered, but the coating isn’t really heavy.  The filets are thick pieces of haddock.  They were fried to a golden brown and piled high on a bun.  Even with a half sandwich, it’s a little tough getting your mouth around the bun – you’ll have to make an exploratory bite first to fit it in.  Let me just say, here and now, that you won’t find a better fish sandwich anywhere.  Joe lamented the fact that, after having the sandwich at Bet’s, he’ll never be able to eat another fish sandwich other than here, as all others will pale in comparison.  Note that the drinks will be from a vending machine; and we didn’t try the fries (I’m sure they are equally good – but there was no sense in filling up on fries…and we’d have never finished them anyway).  Even if the portion size were not so immense, the quality of the fresh fish fried to perfection would put this place on top of my list (and by the way – $9 for a half sandwich – that’s a steal!) Do not miss this spot.

The day was still relatively young, so we wandered around the Boothbay peninsula a bit.  It’s a beautiful part of Midcoast Maine – lots of Islands, inlets, peninsulas, etc.  We took a spin around Southport Island, and headed to Cozy Harbor, passing Robinson’s Wharf on the way (will be subject of another review at some point, but needless to say I’ll be giving it a thumbs up).  Oliver’s is a small, upscale restaurant located in Cozy Harbor, a picturesque little village on the east side of Southport Island (no ferries needed – it’s connected to the mainland via a bridge).  I’m not sure what it was before, but it’s been renovated within the last few years, and part of Paul Coulombe’s growing empire (Paul Coulombe is a wealthy businessman that lives on Southport – it appears people have a love/hate relationship with him, but from my perspective, he seems like he is a big supporter of the area).  Paula and I have tried to visit Oliver’s on two previous visits, but were thwarted on both occasions, once because it was closed and once due to a private party.  The location is perfect, right on a stunning little harbor.  Oliver’s itself, while beautiful and clean inside, feels a little artificial.  Perhaps it’s because I’m used to (and expect) a little wear and tear on these seaside places, and I’m not (yet) a local.  In any case, we were there today just for a quick bloody mary (the previous night’s bourbon tasting, preceded by wine, beer, and champagne, had done us in – so a bloody mary was a good entrée back).  We were shown to a nice outdoor table under a covered balcony.  Service was friendly and fast, and three bloody mary’s were soon in front of us.  They were quite good, with a large shrimp and celery as the accompaniments – and very spicy as I like them.  I was shocked, however, to find out that they actually didn’t contain any vodka.  Apparently, Oliver’s doesn’t have a license to serve distilled spirits – so their cocktails are made with – wine.  Yup, wine.  Well, to be fair, it’s a specialized fermented wine product that’s been developed just for situations like this where an establishment has a beer/wine license, but not one for hard liquor.  Anyway, I honestly couldn’t have noticed the difference between it and one made with vodka.  I have no idea how the food is – we’ll return sometime for a follow-up visit and try the food – but I can give it a provisional thumbs up as the location is stellar, the service is great, and the bloody mary was just right.

By now it was late afternoon, and we needed to get to the Hannaford’s in Damariscotta to pick up a few things for dinner.  I then remembered another place that I’d been wanting to try – Round Top Ice Cream.  It wouldn’t be summer in Maine without a trip to one of the many seasonal ice cream stands dotting this beautiful state.  Round Top, named for a high point just above Damariscotta, started life as a dairy farm just after World War I.  The ice cream stand has been there since the 1920’s…yes, almost 100 years!  Started as a way to utilize more of the production from their prize Holsteins, the dairy farm itself closed in 1968, but the ice cream stand has survived and thrived.  I love places like this…unpretentious, simple.  I like the fact that, as far as I can tell, they employ local high school students – a perfect fit as it’s a summer business.  While it was pretty cool when we visited, there was still quite a full parking lot – always a good sign.  Upon entering, we were charmed by the simplicity – a large converted barn, with a simple counter and about 10 coolers behind.  While they did have a soft serve machine, it was clear that hand dipped cones were what they were about.  We were a little overwhelmed with all the flavors, and particularly intrigued by the flavor “Alewife Pudding” (alewife is a local fish similar to a sardine; turns out this was just Round Top having fun, as it was actually chocolate with M&M’s and espresso beans).  In the end, it was Strawberry and Banana for Joe; Salted Caramel and Eagle Tracks (a vanilla/oreos/reese’s pieces mix)   for Ron; and Salted Caramel and Butter Pecan for me.  This is what ice cream is (or should be) all about – fresh, homemade ice cream; lots of great flavors; families just having fun.  If you come to Midcoast Maine, this is highly worth a stop.

Saturday night was pretty low-key – we had learned our lesson the previous night and went easy on the bourbon.  Dinner was a nice Spaghetti Vongole (unfortunately without fresh parsley, as both Joe and I had been fooled by a bunch of Cilantro masquerading as Parsley – but it didn’t matter), accompanied by a Saint Emilion that Joe had kindly brought from his cellar.  We did finish the evening around the firepit but went easy on the drinking; as a result, we woke up Sunday morning in much better shape than the previous morning.  A full breakfast was in order – eggs, bacon, the works.  It was, unfortunately, another overcast and cool day, but no matter.  The salt air and pine scent of coastal Maine can’t be replicated – and yet another reason I love it there.  By early afternoon, we were up for another adventure.  Today it was time to have a lobster roll – the boys had been promised.  First, let me say – while I like lobster, it’s one of those things I can have once or twice a season, and I’m happy not to have more.  Paula could eat it every night of the week, but I find a little goes a long way.  While this may seem a bit blasphemous in Maine, I’ve increasingly found that this is a sentiment shared by many Mainers.  Tourists go crazy for lobster, and particularly, lobster rolls.  The Maine lobster roll has become one of the unofficial symbols of the state.  Every place has their own “recipe” so to speak (it’s really about overall preparation, as there isn’t much to a lobster roll) – but generally an authentic Maine lobster roll will be fresh lobster piled on griddled, split top hot dog roll.  You’ll find these split top hot dog rolls all over New England, and they are a perfect vehicle for the lobster, as you can griddle up the roll on both sides to get a crispy brown exterior.  Various places will change up the way they prepare the lobster inside the roll – some places only use butter; some only use mayo – but simplicity is best.  You won’t find lettuce or other accompaniments.  Today we were going to the Boothbay Lobster Wharf, which I had heard served a fantastic (and huge) lobster roll in a nice setting.  It’s right on the water, with a little complex consisting of an indoor bar, an outdoor lobster stand steaming whole lobsters, and a window serving lobster rolls and other sandwiches.  While the day was cool, we decided to get some lobster rolls and a beer, and eat at one of the many outdoor tables by the water.  Your choices on lobster rolls were the regular or large.  The large wasn’t cheap ($34 – but lobster rolls in Maine, even a regular one, are going to set you back around $25).  Joe was up first and was on the verge of getting the regular size – but Ron and I had to intervene and mention that the regular was probably the ladies/child portion.  He quickly switched to the large, not wanting to come across as wimpy.  Ron then ordered the regular, and I got the crab roll…Joe was on his own.  Haha!  We grabbed a beer (Ron continued with his mid-day bloody mary) and waited for our rolls.  The setting is just perfect – while it was a little cool that day, this was the place to have a lobster roll – right on the water; a working lobster wharf; gorgeous view of the Maine coast.  Joe went to pick up the rolls, and we enjoyed the view.  We noticed he was struggling with the tray a bit as he approached with our food.  His lobster roll wasn’t just large – it was ginormous!!  There must have been the equivalent of two full lobsters stuffed into the roll (which you couldn’t even really see for the lobster).  Our rolls seemed anemic by comparison, especially my runty crab roll.  While he had a brief moment of hesitation on how he was even going to eat it, Joe quickly tucked in, and before we knew it, our rolls were resting comfortably in our (ample) bellies.  I like the lobster rolls here – for me, I like my lobster roll with a touch more mayo than most places use – and the Boothbay Lobster Wharf was just right.  My crab roll was delicious – I usually opt for crab rolls instead of lobster rolls – full of sweet Maine crab meat bound with just a touch of mayo.  This place is all you want in a lobster roll joint – absolutely fresh seafood; beautiful rustic setting; fast and friendly service.  So far, my favourite lobster roll place in Midcoast Maine.  We reluctantly waddled back to the car to continue our meanderings, fully satisfied with our choice.

After taking a nice drive out to see the Pemaquid Point lighthouse, we wandered back to Edgecomb to prepare for dinner.  Actually, we had quite stuffed ourselves all weekend, and none of us were thinking about anything big for dinner.  Ron wanted to try to get some live lobsters to bring back to Jeanine (he had an extremely early flight out the next morning), but when we got to Fisherman’s Catch, it had just closed (early closing at 4pm on Sundays).  No worries – I remembered a place that just might be open – a place I had been wanting to try for a while.  We headed out of Damariscotta and took the River Road turnoff to head down the northeast, Damariscotta river side of Edgecomb.  Our destination – The Lobster Store.  Also called Barbara Scully’s Oyster and Lobster Market.  Barbara Scully is a local legend in these parts (“these parts”? – what am I – a cowboy?  sorry, but it sounded right!).  She was instrumental in getting oyster farming started on the Damariscotta River.  Working with the Darling Marine Center, Scully (a zoologist by education), Scully began experimenting with oyster farming on the Damariscotta almost 32 years ago.  Her Glidden Point Oyster Farm was one of the first oyster farms in this area of Maine, but many more soon followed.  Now, the oysters from this region are well known, and enjoyed, all over the world.  Barbara sold Glidden Point a few years ago, but then opened her roadside market (it’s a quaint little building adjacent to her house) selling clams, fresh oysters, and lobsters.  We pulled up to the small building and breathed a sigh of relief as we noticed it was open.  As mentioned previously, Barbara operates on the honor system when she isn’t around – which is remarkable.  In this case we were greeted first by one of her dogs, and then Barbara herself came out.  I introduced myself (as I expected to be a quasi-regular in these parts, and my house was less than 15 minutes away), and we talked about the oysters she had available.  There were three choices: Dodge Cove; Norumbegas; and Ring Points.  Barbara spent some time talking to us about how each was grown and harvested slightly different, resulting in different flavors.  She also talked about the unique characteristics of the Damariscotta River, and various pinch points which stir up the phytoplankton during tides, providing a great environment for oyster growth.  Unfortunately for Ron, she had just sold the last of her lobsters, but we picked up 3 dozen oysters (a dozen of each) and headed home.  Barbara’s little shop is another one of those places I highly recommend – she is highly knowledgeable and stocks amazing product.  Interestingly enough, we asked Barbara if she still ate oysters after all these years – she laughed and said she preferred a nice ribeye!

We headed back to the house and agreed that dinner was just going to be the oysters, and a little cheese/charcuterie that night. The oysters were, like Friday night, the stars.  Accompanied by Joe’s house made mignonette, we polished them off in short order.  Ron and I took the shucking duties (although Ron was roundly chastised for not cutting the oysters free of the shell for his shucked oysters!).  After another fire-pit night (along with one of my neighbors, Eric, who brought over two dozen fresh eggs from his chickens!), we called it a relatively early night.  For Ron, this was the end of the weekend as he had that early flight.  Joe and I had one last stop.  Heading to the airport at midday on Monday, we got across the Wiscasset bridge and were presented with two choices.  On the right, the granddaddy of all lobster roll shacks in Maine…the most well-known…the famous Red’s Eats.  On the left, the relatively obscure (for those from away) Sprague’s.  The line at Red’s was already quite long (at least an hour and a half) for this early in the season.  Sprague’s had no line.  The choice was easy (and one that was pre-selected as I already knew what I was doing).  We pulled into the parking lot at Sprague’s, which, unlike Red’s, actually sits on the water.  I’ve never understood the hype about Red’s.  This has been written about many times, but it’s weird how celebrity starts.  Red’s celebrity origins are a bit murky, but I think it was “discovered” in the pre-internet days through a couple of newspaper reviews out of state (perhaps the NY times?).  It was always a well-known spot, going back to the 50’s – but over the years it has become the number one lobster roll destination for tourists – much to the displeasure of some locals, as it results in notorious delays and backups on Rt. 1 during the summer.  Anyway, I’ve had lobster rolls from Red’s Eats – I’ve waited in that line before.  They’re good…but I never found them to be better than lots of other lobster rolls.  Bear in mind that I’m not an “aficionado” about lobster rolls – they are so simple (I think that’s part of their popularity – fresh and simple), it’s hard to get too excited about a particular lobster roll.  Sprague’s is right across the street.  Sprague’s always has parking.  You’re rarely going to wait more than 30 minutes for your lobster roll.  The lobster, like Red’s, is freshly steamed.  You get about the same amount of lobster meat; and you pay slightly less at Sprague’s.  So, we turned left into Sprague’s, ordered our lobster rolls, grabbed a picnic table, and watched the line at Red’s as it moved at glacial speed.  The rolls were great.  As good as Boothbay Lobster Wharf?  For me, no, but pretty darn close.  I like the slightly mayo-ier (is that a word?) version at Boothbay.

But it was nice sunny day; the lobster roll and lemonade were great, and a nice finish to the weekend.  We pulled on to Rt. 1 to head to the airport and said goodbye to Wiscasset.  Overall, a fantastic weekend in an awesome location with friends.  Thanks to Ron and Joe for sharing the weekend with me, and for not letting me spend a dime during the weekend.  For the rest of you – I encourage you to visit Midcoast Maine and explore this wonderful region.  There are lots of things to do, but as I’ve found, it’s a bit like going back in time to a simpler time, where families can relax and enjoy a simple ice cream on a sunny Saturday.

Oysters- Overcome your fears

“As I ate the oysters with their strong taste of the sea and their faint metallic taste that the cold white wine washed away, leaving only the sea taste and the succulent texture, and as I drank their cold liquid from each shell and washed it down with the crisp taste of the wine, I lost the empty feeling and began to be happy and to make plans.”

Ernest Hemingway, ‘A Moveable Feast’

Oysters!   Do you love them?  We do!  Something tells me, though, that many of you have a very different opinion on this.  Perhaps no other food creates such a dividing line – people either love them (like me) or detest them – and there aren’t a lot of in-betweens.  Now, I will guess that many of you that say you hate oysters, have never tried an oyster.  Which is a shame, because they are truly one of the most enjoyable foods we eat – and I hope to be able to convince a few of you to give them a try.  I love oysters, in part, because of the way they express their terroir (pronounced ter-wahr) – the conditions under which a food is grown or produced that give it its unique characteristics.  Terroir is a sense of place expressed through taste.  This is a word that has historically been used to describe wines, but it has broader application to all foods.  All natural foods that are grown or produced exhibit terroir.  If I have a Chantenay carrot from two different farms, they will each have slight differences in flavor, reflecting all the specific growing conditions of each farm – type of soil, how often they are watered, type of nutrients, when they were harvested, etc. – even though they may be identical varieties of carrot.  Will the differences in flavor be distinct?  Probably not.  For most foods, these differences are going to be subtle.  But we live in a world where terroir is increasingly valued and celebrated.  That’s why you see so much focus on highlighting terroir on menus these days – for example, these aren’t just any tomatoes in the salad, these are “Eckerton Hill Farms Heirloom tomatoes”.  Yes, sometimes it gets a bit annoying with these lengthy menu descriptions.  But with oysters, almost more so than any other food, you really taste…distinctly…their terroir (well, I guess technically it’s their “merroir”).  That’s what makes them so interesting and joyful for me – the ability to distinctly taste, in a single bite, the tiny part of the ocean that this little guy came from.

Now, I don’t want to bore you with a long history of oysters as a food.  Rather, I’ll just bore you with more quotes!  Jonathan Swift, that wonderful ironic 18th century satirist once said “He was a bold man that first ate an oyster” – and while that may be true, others quickly followed, because oysters have been an important food for maritime communities for thousands of years.  While once the food of the common man, oysters today are, unfortunately, a bit of a luxury item.  Go into any oyster or raw bar today, and you’ll likely see a chalk board or daily menu with anywhere from a few selections to as many as 15 or more selections of oysters.  Malpeques, Wellfleets, Bagaduces, Duxburys, Bluepoints, Kusshis, Beau Soleils.  Some of the names are intriguing – Lady Chatterly, or Fanny Bay (my British friends will love that one! Andy, Paddy, Chris!).  It leads people to believe that there are hundreds of species of oysters out there – but amazingly enough, there are really only five food oyster species (Kumamoto; Pacific; Eastern; European Flats; and Olympia), and one – the Eastern Oyster, or Crassostrea virginica – makes up 85% of oyster consumption in the US.  Take a look at the menu from the Grand Central Oyster Bar, the granddaddy of NY oyster bars.  It’s from today – and I count 12 different East Coast oysters.  Every one of those oysters is Crassostrea virginica, and every one not only looks different, but tastes different.  The same characteristics apply to Pacific Oysters; European Oysters; etc.  While the species may be the same, the shape, size, shell color, oyster texture and oyster flavor are going to be distinctly different depending on a dizzying number of variables associated with where the oyster was grown, and when it was harvested.  In the US, most raw oysters offered are either East Coast, or Pacific (also called West Coast).  Occasionally, Belons (European Flats) are offered, but these are almost always harvested from Maine, where Belons were transplanted from Europe in the 1950’s.  While there are many flavor and texture variations, there are some generalizations about their physical characteristics and flavor profiles (I love that phrase!) – Pacific oysters are typically smaller, rounder, deeper, creamier, sweeter, with hints of melon or cucumber; while East Coast oysters tend to be larger, narrower, briny, crisp, with a slight mineral accent.   In this picture, the Pacific oysters are in the middle -see how they look different?  These are wide generalizations, of course – there is significant overlap.  I will admit that I am an East Coast oyster lover– it’s not that I dislike Pacific Oysters – but I prefer the briny flavor of Eastern oysters to the (for me) slightly off-putting melony favor of West Coast.  But aside from those generalizations, the variation is astounding.  For example, on the other side of the Boothbay Peninsula from us is the Damariscotta River, one of the major oyster growing areas in Maine. I’ve had the following oysters from the Damariscotta: Pemaquids; Glidden Points; Norumbegas; Wawenauks; Dodge Coves; Otter Coves; Browne Points; and Wiley Points.  I’m sure there are even more, but amazingly, these 8 oysters are all grown within a 15 mile stretch of the Damariscotta River – and they all taste distinctly different!  It’s the result of all the different variables that go into growing and harvesting the oysters.  Salinity; depth of harvesting; depth of finishing; location along the river; current; etc.  All these variations combine to produce a unique flavor.  We live on the other side of the Peninsula, on the Sheepscot side.  There are exactly zero oyster farms on our side, yet we are only 4 miles away, and the tidal waters that flow in both rivers is from the exact same source.  Given that a significant amount of lobster harvesting occurs just off our dock, I thought it was strange that there were no oyster farms.  I contacted Bill Mook, owner of Mook Sea Farms and a pioneer in Damariscotta oyster farming, to find out why.  Bill suggested that the Sheepscot was just too cold to efficiently grow oysters.  You see, oysters grow much better in warmer water – and it’s only in the last 30 years that aquaculture techniques to improve cold water oyster farming have allowed the resurgence of the Maine oyster populations.  Whatever the reason, we are thrilled to be living so close to a thriving oyster fishery – when we have oysters in our local pub, we know they were likely harvested the previous day, within a few miles of our location.

So, let’s talk about what I think is the first hurdle that you oyster haters have to get over – eating them raw.  This really frightens a lot of people.  First, everyone has their story on someone getting sick from eating a raw oyster.  Yes, it does happen, and, particularly for high-risk individuals (such as those with compromised immune systems), eating raw oysters may not be advisable because of the potential life-threatening consequences.  That said, the general risks of infection in the US are very low, especially if you confine your oyster eating or buying to well known establishments with solid histories.  There are risks from consuming many food items, ranging from undercooked meats (e.g. medium rare burgers) to raw eggs, and even unwashed spinach.  But I don’t think the risks from eating raw oysters are so high that this should stop people from consuming them.  While I love cooked oysters as well, to me, they are a completely different product.  Steamed oysters dipped in butter are one of my daughter and I’s favourite foods on Hilton Head Island in South Carolina.  My wife and I absolutely love New Orleans chargrilled oysters (Acme, Felix’s, – we love them all!).  But cooked oysters really lose that delicate flavor I love in raw oysters – that’s why cooked oysters are generally flavored up with other things (butter; cheese; Worcester sauce; hot sauce; etc.)

OK, if you can get past the idea of eating raw food (yes, I realize it’s raw live food!), some people struggle with the visual aspect.  “They look slimy” said one of my friends (they aren’t).  “They look prehistoric” said another (actually, they are).  You need to get over it.  Lobsters look like a giant bug.  Have you ever eaten halibut?  Of course, what a great fish.  Do you know what a halibut looks like?  Ok, not so scared?  How about monkfish?  Nice white, mild fish.  Take a look – Pretty scary, right?  Now, look at a raw oyster.  It has a beautiful shell, with a glistening succulent morsel of moist meat in the center.  Now smell it – does it smell fishy?  No, and if it does, don’t eat it as its probably bad.  Raw oysters have only a slight fragrance – the smell subtly of the sea.  They smell fresh.  If properly served, they will come on a bed of ice, and they’ll be cool (but not ice cold) to the touch.  You’ll want to use the little fork they give you to make sure that the oyster has been properly separated from the shell – slide the fork under the oyster and just make sure it isn’t attached.  Raw oysters are meant to be eaten in one bite – you don’t cut them up and eat them.  When most people think about trying one for the first time, they’re a bit scared about what the oyster will taste like, and what the texture will be.  As a result, they do what humans are evolved to do – they try to take a little test-bite first.  Resist the urge to do this – you’ll end up with a mess, and a bad experience. 

So, let’s talk texture.  Surprisingly, you’ll find a fairly wide variety in the texture of oysters depending, again, on their merroir.  They will range from soft, to compact and slightly springy.  They are not, however, slimy – again, if you have a slimy oyster, it is likely that it’s bad.  Now it’s in your mouth – do you swallow?  Do you chew?  That’s all about preference.  I like to take a couple of chews before swallowing – but I promise that on your first oyster, your instinct will be to swallow quickly.  That’s ok – it’s the fear factor kicking in.  The important thing will be to just get over that first try.  Finally, the flavor – everyone I know that has tried their first raw oyster has been surprised by how mild and wonderfully subtle the flavor is.  You get a little brininess. It’s a fresh, clean flavor.  It’s not strong; it’s not fishy.  Too me, it’s almost like tasting the ocean breeze.  Over time, as you enjoy oysters more, and you allow the oyster to linger a bit before swallowing, you’ll start to notice other subtle flavors – sometimes a mineral finish; sometimes a slight citrus flavor.

Accoutrements

Ok, what are these?  Accompaniments, of course.  You know – the little wedge of lemon; cocktail sauce; mignonette (pronounced min-yon-ette), which is the little cup of vinegary looking stuff you frequently get with oysters.  First, I’m a bit of a purist when it comes to my accompaniments – a little spritz of fresh lemon, a little grate of pepper, or nothing at all.  But at the beginning, you’ll do like many people – you’ll load up your oyster with cocktail sauce; extra horseradish; tabasco – again, I think it’s all part of overcoming the fear factor.  People think there will be a strong unpleasant flavor, so they try to pre-empt it by covering it with something equally (in their mind) strong.  The problem, ironically, is that the oyster has such a mild, subtle flavor that anything you put on it can quickly overwhelm the flavors.  I notice that people do this with sushi as well.  Do you?  Come on, admit it if you do.  I meet lots of people that say they like sushi.  We go to the sushi bar.  My first clue is their predominant focus on rolls – keep the fish safely tucked away beneath rice; vegetables; and sauces.  Then the horrible habit of mixing a large wad of wasabi in with their soy sauce – so they end up with a sinus busting dipping sauce.  The subtle flavor of the fish is nowhere to be found.  The same can be found with people purporting to love raw oysters – you see them load up on cocktail sauce before slurping down their oyster.  Yesterday, at the Grand Central Oyster Bar, we were enjoying some oysters and I noticed the guy next to us pile a teaspoon of raw horseradish on top of some cocktail sauce on his oyster!  I guarantee that he got absolutely no oyster flavor in that bite – only horseradish.  You’ll need to wean yourself down, however.  First, let go of the tabasco.  Then cut back on the cocktail sauce.  Replace the cocktail sauce with a little mignonette.  Replace the mignonette with just a splash of lemon.  Then finally, one day, eat the oyster naked (well, ehm.  I don’t mean eat it in the nude…I mean, do that if you want, but…ehm…never mind).  By the way, mignonette is extremely easy to make if, and when, you finally decide to buy and shuck your own oysters (more on that in a moment).  It’s really just vinegar (typically red or white wine vinegar), a little finely chopped shallot, and some fresh ground pepper.  You can make it ahead, and it keeps for several weeks in the fridge.  Old oyster aficionados in Maine like just a little grind of fresh black pepper on their oyster – and I’ve found that to be quite enjoyable as well (adds a little spice without covering the wonderful flavor).

Trying them at home

Ok, you’ve tried your first oysters, and you like them.  You’ve cut down on the cocktail sauce and are really starting to enjoy the merroir.  But at $3-$4 an oyster, you realize this is getting to be an expensive habit.  I totally agree, but don’t blame it on the oyster growers.  There is a whole chain of special handling to get that delicate oyster from the oyster farm to the plate at the oyster bar – harvesting; storing; shipping; storing; shucking; presenting.  It’s a chain that adds cost.  But if you are lucky enough to live near the coast, you’ll find seafood purveyors selling fresh oysters.  Depending on the season and your location, you can buy these oysters for under $1 per oyster.  Still a little pricey, but now within reach for most people to eat them regularly.  You buy a dozen, and an oyster knife, get them home, and figure – how hard can this be?  I remember getting ambitious on my first time buying oysters to shuck at home – I bought two dozen Blue Points and an oyster knife from my local supermarket.  I got them home, washed them, and prepared to shuck.  I had watched a couple of youtube videos – didn’t look that hard.  An hour and half later I had finished shucking – I was exhausted; the kitchen was a mess; my palm was bleeding from several puncture marks, and the oysters were a disaster – little bits of broken shell and mud on almost every one.  I began to appreciate the shuckers at the oyster bar – you get a plate of oysters, clean, glistening, no mud, or broken shells – and you realize why you are paying $3 per oyster!  When we bought our house in Maine, we started going to a local pub (King Eiders Pub) in Damariscotta to have our oysters.  I noticed that the woman behind the bar was using some type of contraption to shuck the oysters – a metal bar on a hinge, with a cutting point welded onto the bar.  Aha!, I thought, this was the trick.  It wasn’t technique!  I wasn’t to blame for my shoddy shucking…it was my lack of professional equipment!  A quick romp ’round google, and I found that I could buy just such a device – called an Oyster Jack – and check it out – Amazon prime as well! (Paula will tell you I am an Amazon Prime addict, and a lead donor to the Jeff Bezos “Make me richer” fund).  Within a day I had my own professional oyster jack.  I couldn’t wait to try it – Fisherman’s Catch (our local seafood purveyor) had Pemaquid Points on sale for $0.80 each – so I bought a dozen (I had learned my lesson on over-reaching with initial shucking attempts!), got them home, and assembled my Oyster Jack.  It definitely speeded up the process.  It took me a few disastrous times to get it right, but the device improved my ability to pop the hinge on the oyster (the hardest part of shucking).  I cut down my shucking time to 20 minutes – but still occasionally ended up with broken shells.  And there was still a bit of a mess.  Finally, I watched a few more videos, and practiced on a few dozen (or more) oysters, this time using only an oyster knife – and I finally “got it”.  My problem was in putting too much brute force to try to pop the hinge.  It’s much more about technique – wiggle the knife point in, apply very slight pressure, slightly rotate the knife tip, and you will feel it pop open.  Once you learn the technique, shucking isn’t so bad.  I also learned to buy a shucking glove (knife proof gloves – Amazon prime – under $7 a pair) for protection.  I may still use the oyster jack if I have a lot of people over, but with my technique refined, I only need a good oyster knife and a kitchen towel to shuck (almost) like a professional!

What to Drink

Anything you want!  While that’s true, I find that oysters go best with something cold and crisp – and that usually means a nice beer, a sparkling wine (like Champagne, Cava, or Prosecco), or a still white wine.  Again, like with accompaniments, it’s about not overwhelming the flavor of the oyster.  For beer, you’ll want to stick to lighter beers – pilsners, or if you are lucky to find it near you, a Kölsch.  Heavier, and hoppier beers are likely to linger on the palate and corrupt the taste of the oysters.  For wines, we like a nice Cava or Prosecco, or a chilled white like a Sauvignon Blanc.  While red wine is our general wine of choice, it’s not the best for accompanying oysters, for the same reasons previously stated.

So, I hope I’ve convinced just a few of you to try your first raw oyster, and if you do, I think you will be surprised by how much you like them.  One of my nephews, Facundo (that’s him on the left), has a very narrow range of food he will eat – beef; pizza; pasta; no veggies.  A few years ago we convinced Facundo to actually try an oyster.   To the right is Facundo just after his first oyster.  No, not really! – that’s clearly not Facundo.  Actually, he overcame his fear and loved his first taste of oysters! (That is, however, what Facundo looks like after mistakenly eating green vegetables!)

 

Yes, they are expensive – but if you are willing to spend some time learning how to shuck an oyster, you can enjoy them at home for less than $1 per oyster.  If you become obsessed with oysters as I have, you’ll start searching out the various oyster happy hours near you.  These have become quite popular in NYC, and I can highly recommend Crave Fishbar’s oyster happy hour – the best in town.  There are some “soup-nazi” style rules, but follow them, and you’ll get a wide variety of east and west coast oysters at $1 each (unlike many oyster happy hours which generally serve only Blue Points).  If you find yourself in Portland, Maine, I encourage you to try Eventide – a fantastic oyster bar that (obviously) specializes in Maine oysters.  Their unique solution to the problem of overwhelming the raw oyster with accompaniments is to provide a choice of flavored ices (really, these are special granitas) to accompany the oyster – so you get a little additional flavor without overwhelming the oyster.  The abundance of local oysters is yet another reason why we love Maine.  If you can get past your fears, and try that first oyster, you may, as we have, come to love eating oysters.  We love them like we love drinking wine or eating cheese – because we can taste the terroir, or merroir, in the product.  I’ll leave you with a quote from my high school years, from a book called “The Chosen”, by Chaim Potok.

“Merely to live, merely to exist – what sense is there to it? A fly also lives.”

Let’s do more than that – let’s have experiences that enrich our lives.  So, go eat an oyster!

Someday

When is Someday?

So – here we are.  The “here” is Midcoast Maine.  The “we” are myself and my wife – mid-50’s, pondering “what’s next”.  A few details about us – I am American, my wife is Argentinian; I have a grown daughter (finishing college); we love travel; food/wine; people; and like many people our age we are starting to think about that word…”retirement”.  What does it mean? Where will it be?  What will we do?  What do we need?  All sorts of questions, and, unfortunately, no definitive answers.  But…pondering the question(s) is what brought us here – to the Maine coast.

Like many things in life, serendipity played a big part.  My company owns assets in Maine, so we decided to have a Board meeting on the Maine coast – in part to provide a little variety to our normal Manhattan board meetings.  Flying up from NYC, I was astonished at how quick and easy it was to be in Maine – a 1 hour flight from LaGuardia and we were there.  Another hour drive and we were in midcoast Maine.  Perhaps it was the wonderful weather (September – warm days, cool nights, no bugs), but as I drove down the Boothbay peninsula with my window rolled down, and smelled the fresh pine scent with a hint of salt air, I started to think – “wouldn’t it be fantastic to live here?”.  Now, those words have probably been spoken a million times by people visiting Maine…and I’ve thought them countless times in countless locations – the Cotswolds; the Loire Valley; Northern Italy; Northern Spain; Argentina; the Caribbean.  And so, like I’ve done many times before, I sat in my bed that night, just googling around at local real estate websites, thinking “someday” and “what if” – and came across – The House.  The One.  This amazing house in an amazing setting.  It was somewhat unique for Maine, but unique in a way that entirely suited us.  It was right on the water (so close that, standing in the living room and looking at the water, you feel you are in the prow of a boat) – not so unique for Maine.  But a midcentury modern style – now, that is relatively rare for the Maine coast, and suits us perfectly.  It had a gorgeous waterfront setting, but wasn’t oversized – for many of the houses we looked at, there was a direct correlation between value of the lot, and size of the house – people usually maximize the size of the house as the value of the property increases. 

 We didn’t want a gigantic house to maintain.  The house was focused more on open space inside and out; less on bedrooms (probably why it didn’t get immediately snapped up – most buyers were going to want to maximize beds).  It was private, with a beautiful forest all around.  As they say, it ticked all our boxes.

But wait… were we really looking to buy a house?  We had a comfortable urban life in NYC.  We loved to travel, never quite knowing each year where we’d go.  And while we talked, speculatively, about where we would “someday” live, it was always assumed that “someday” was still down the road.  Something about this house was intriguing though.  I called my wife and asked her if she wanted to meet me up in Maine for the weekend – I’d just stay on from my Board meeting., and we’d have a nice weekend on the coast – eating lobster, enjoying the scenery, …oh, and perhaps we’d look at a few houses.  Just for fun.  Well “just for fun” turned into “I love this place” – and then we had to grapple with more questions – ”was this the best timing?”; “how would we use it?”; “would we get enough use out of it?”; “is this really where we ultimately want to retire?”

But you know what?  We took a step back…we took a breath…and we dispensed with all of the analytical thought.  What did we know?  We loved the place; it made us happy; we could afford it; and we were in the here and now.  Many people spend a good part of their lives living for “somedays” – someday I’d like to travel; someday I’d like to learn a new language; someday I’d like to live on the water…and then you wake up one day and (if you are smart), you realize that someday is today.  Listen, I’m not one of those folks that says “live each day as if it’s your last” – wow, that’s a lot of pressure on one day!  I think I would end up being exhausted within a few days!  But – we aren’t going to live forever.  At some point maybe we all need to start actuating some of our dreams – turning them into reality.  We all have dreams, right?  Maybe some of our dreams are unattainable – and that’s ok.  Some of our dreams, I think, are meant to stay as dreams – they are meant to inspire us for other things.  However, many of us have some dreams that are attainable, and just waiting for action on our part.  Little dreams (someday, I’m going to learn to play guitar), or big dreams (someday, I’m going to live on a beach). 

So, I don’t know if we are going to retire (whatever that means), someday, to Maine.  But I do know that today, we have a beautiful place on the water.  We have gorgeous sunset views, with seals and lobster traps off our dock.  We have a meandering stream, with many small waterfalls, creating the background soundtrack for our little walks.  A place we can enjoy now.  We still have other dreams – but we’re living much more for today.

I don’t know what this blog will ultimately be about.  We have a lot of interests, perhaps some that you might share.  I’ll be writing about food and wine and restaurants.  I’ll be writing about Argentina.  I’ll be writing about our experiences as we explore midcoast Maine.  I might write about guitars, movies, our various travels – whatever happens to be going on in our lives.   I might write about my continuing attempts to create things in a dilettante manner (homemade limoncello anyone?).   Or I might just write about some of the simple things that make me happy – a crisp fall day; the sound of water; the joy of entertaining with friends and family; my daughters voice; sharing time with people I love; my wife.   I’d love to have an interaction with people through this blog – so more to come on that.  But for now, I hope you all enjoy life…..today!