It’s a shame that generally the only thing people know about Catalunya (or Catalonia in English) is Barcelona (and perhaps the Catalan fight for independence from Spain). Yet there is much more to Catalunya than Barcelona. Today I want to introduce you to the beautiful region known at the Costa Brava – roughly translated as Wild Coast. The Costa Brava is a gorgeous area north of Barcelona, very accessible, and full of history. We love Barcelona, and strongly encourage a visit – but if you have more time, and 
want to explore beyond Barcelona, the Costa Brava should be top of your list! And for my British friends out there – this article is focused on the area outside of Tossa del Mar, Lloret del Mar – while you can have a perfectly good holiday in those areas, I’m talking about the places where you won’t find a full English breakfast!
“I was at the top of a rugged cliff, which tumbles to the sea below in a rush of rocks passing by green agaves and golden wild fennel. To the south-west, the placid curve of the beaches of Blanes and Sabanell, as far as Tordera Point, separated by a rocky islet (Sa Palomera) which an isthmus has joined to the land, fixing one’s gaze and understanding, exultant at the spectacle of the Costa Brava”
Ferran Agulló from a 1908 Article in La Veu de Catalunya
The Catalan poet Ferran Agulló was said to have christened this area of Catalunya, the Costa Brava, in an article from 1908 promoting the region’s wild beauty. It stretches from the north, where it borders France in the Eastern Pyrenees, down along the coast to Blanes, and inland to the mountainous area north of Girona. This is a region steeped in historical significance. Inhabited since the middle Paleolithic (approximately 200,000 years ago), the region has seen numerous waves of occupation given its unique location. In pre-Roman times, the area was the northernmost region populated by the Iberians. The area was then invaded by the Carthaginians, who were subsequently 
defeated by the Romans. After the fall of the Roman empire, the area saw various invasions and rule by Visigoths, Muslims, and the Frankish empire. It was around this time (middle ages, 1100) that the first identity as Catalunya began. The area was an important part of the Kingdom of Aragon in the middle ages, and evidence of this history is visible in the many well preserved medieval villages in this region – including Pals, Peratallada, Foixà, Monells, and La Bisbal d’Empordà.
Returning to the present, this story begins with a book – 1001 Escapes to Experience Before You Die. Usually I don’t like 
these bucket-list type books – it makes me think too much of my own mortality – but I discovered this one day while googling around for unique places to visit in Spain and Italy. This sentence hooked me “At the end of a narrow road in an idyllic bay…”. Further googling revealed a picture from an article in a Spanish magazine called “Solos en una cala”– water so crystal clear that boats appear to be floating in midair. I wanted in. 
I added it to my list of places to someday visit (but probably not – that was back when “someday” meant “probably never”). Flash forward to a few years ago (haha!). Paula and I had been dreaming about the potential to buy a small house in Italy or Spain where we could live for part of the year in our “retirement”. Our wish list was: smaller village; close access to larger town with health care; near the sea; away from heavy tourist zones; reasonably priced area; strong local culture of food and wine; reasonable access to airport (2-3 hours). The Costa Brava area ticked all our boxes – and it had the advantage of being Spanish speaking (well…partially Spanish speaking as Catalan is the first language). I had started to poke around real estate listings when I came across Rita Fryer, a US expat who had been living in Spain for more than 25 years, working as a buyer’s agent specializing in Costa Brava real estate. Rita (who now focuses on Barcelona www.barcelonaluxuryrentals.com) was very pleasant and forthcoming with lots of information about the area. As she had an apartment in NYC and was visiting there soon, we arranged for Rita to have dinner with us at our apartment. We had a great time learning a bit about Rita’s life in Spain (although American, she was, for all practical purposes, a Brit, as she had been married for many years to a British national). We asked her for suggestions on where to stay if we came over for an exploration visit, and without hesitation she said “Sa Rascassa”. Wait a minute – wasn’t that the place in 1001 Escapes to Experience Before You Die? It was…the very same. Now we had to go – fate was pushing us along. A plan soon came together for our summer trip.
Based on advice from Rita, we decided to use the area around Begur as a base of operations. Begur is a beautiful little town very close to the coast, featuring a prominent, crumbling 11th century medieval castle built on the highest hill in the area. It has an interesting history, and it became prosperous this century from Begurians returning from Cuba. See, Cuba was a Spanish colony in the 19th century, and many people from Begur had immigrated to Cuba to seek their fortune in the Americas. Some made their fortunes in sugar and rum in Cuba, 
and some of these wealthy folks became a bit homesick. Many returned to Begur, building large homes with their new-found wealth from Havana. You’ll still see architectural styles in Begur from Cuba, and every year they still have a Cuban festival in Begur to celebrate the connection. As an aside, Facundo Bacardi was another one of these Spanish immigrants to Cuba, finding his fortune in the rum empire he founded. Bacardi was from Sitges, also in Catalunya, but a little further south down the coast. I’ll have another post one day that talks about Sitges – it’s another great little town to visit.
So, with Begur decided as our base, we arranged the rest of the details of our trip. If you decide to visit this area as we did (to explore), you will absolutely need a car. While there are trains up the coast, and some buses, this is a relatively rural area that will require a car to see it efficiently. Our plan was to fly to Barcelona; pick up a rental car at the airport; head up to the Costa Brava for 4-5 days; then return to Barcelona for a few days before coming home. For those that haven’t driven in Spain, you’ll find it very easy. The highway system is well maintained; signage is clearly marked; and, other than some of the smaller villages, the roads are generally wider than those found in some of the other European countries (like England). That said, you will want to avoid, if you can, trying to rent a large car or SUV – parking spaces really cater to 
smaller vehicles; gas is relatively expensive; and in some of the smaller villages, you will find difficulty navigating. If you can’t drive a stick shift, make sure you specify an automatic – unless you specify, you are likely to get a standard (this happened to me on my first trip to Argentina – and they had no automatics…I drove a stick for the first time in 25 years, while navigating the crazy traffic of Buenos Aires…Paula had fun!). We picked up the car and headed north on the highway. As you leave the greater Barcelona area, the Catalan countryside unfolds before you. The main highway towards Girona travels along a valley, with a mountainous area to the west, and the rocky promontories of the coast to the east. We could just as easily have established our base in Girona – it’s a medium sized city with a tremendous amount of history, and a beautiful old section. However, we were looking for a quieter base of operations – and the beautiful little gem of Sa Rascassa beckoned.
Cala d’Aiguafreda is a stunning cove, situated, as that original article mentioned, at the end of an “idyllic road”. As you leave the heights of Begur, you wind your way down along switchback roads, through a pine forest, with 
glimpses of stunning coastal vistas each time your break through the trees. The air here reminds me of Maine – fresh pine and the faint scent of the sea. The water is absolutely crystal clear, and you can see why this is a favourite area for scuba divers and snorkelers. We found our way to the end of the road – literally – which terminates in a public parking lot providing access to the water. This was also the parking lot of Sa Rascassa, our home for the next 5 days. Sa Rascassa started life in 1916, built as a private home when Aiguafreda was a private cove. 
Over the years it became a holiday camp, and then a diving center. It was acquired by Oscar Gorriz, and his wife Merche, in 2002. Oscar had owned an advertising agency in Barcelona but was looking for a different pace of life when he came across the house. His vision was to convert the existing structure into a small restaurant and offer a few rooms above the restaurant. The restaurant setting, especially at night, is truly magical, with both indoor and outdoor 
seating. The outdoor tables are situated under a number of old trees, with fairy lights twinkling. You are close enough to the water to hear the gentle lapping of waves and smell the salt air. Upstairs are 5 rooms – simple, clean, and inviting. 
Those looking for lavish luxury won’t find it here – but if you’re looking for a quiet, tranquil, hidden cove setting – this is the place. We were quickly checked in at the restaurant/office below and directed to head up the outside stairs to the level above where we would find 
our rooms. The rooms sit directly above the restaurant and are arranged facing a private gravel patio with tables and umbrellas. From this level there is a gorgeous view of Aiguafreda, along with a private path to the cove steps below. We found our room, which had a chalkboard sign out front indicating “Paula y Steve” – a wonderful touch that made us feel right at home. We quickly unpacked and headed down the path to visit Aiguafreda.
It was a hot August day, and so we threw on our swimsuits. The cove has a small “beach bar” (there really isn’t a beach as it’s a rocky cove, typical of the Mediterranean), also operated by Oscar, where you can get cold draft beer and a variety of small bites. There is a public access on the other side of the bar, as well as a small diving center. When we arrived, there were several people enjoying a beer in the rustic setting, and several others just returning from a 
dive trip. The crystal-clear water sparkled in the sun, and there were a few people snorkeling in the tiny cove. Several boats bobbed just offshore. Paula approached the water and dipped her toe – I could tell by her reaction that there wouldn’t be any swimming here for Paula…too cold! Like Maine, the waters here are frigid – 
obviously your first clue is in the name – Aiguafreda. Paula set her towel on a flat rock and enjoyed the sun. I was determined to get in that water. Rather than acclimate with slow torture, I jumped in…Yikes! As I caught my breath from the shock of the water, I realized Paula had made the right decision. But after my initial convulsions, the contrast between the hot August sun and the water was enjoyable, and we spent a lazy afternoon in the cove, followed by a long nap in our room.
As beautiful as Sa Rascassa was during the day, it really came alive at night. The restaurant doesn’t open until 8:30pm, very typical of Catalunya (and Argentina!). We were lucky we had booked with Oscar prior to our arrival – the 
restaurant is very popular and indeed was fully booked the first night of our stay. Choosing to eat outside under those magical lights, we had a cold glass of Cava (sparkling white wine like Prosecco or Champagne) from the region and perused the menu. The menu was wide-ranging but focused primarily on the fresh seafood from the area. There were several specials that featured whatever the chef happened to purchase that day from the fisherman in the area. This is the type of food we like best – fresh, local, and simply prepared. Catalunya is known for its high standard of food, particularly 
in Girona where there are over 12 restaurants which have earned a Michelin star. Girona became the poster child for the avant-garde gastronomic movement, and El Cellar de Can Roca, a 3-star Michelin restaurant, has variously been named the best restaurant in the world. But that’s not the type of restaurant that Paula and I enjoy the most – restaurants that take a year or more to get a reservation, and that feature lengthy tasting menus. We much prefer the simple, but sophisticated approach like at Sa Rascassa, which puts the freshness of the local seafood, and produce, front and center. We started with Tallarinas, extremely tiny clams (I believe they are a variety of coquinas) sautéed quickly in olive oil and white wine – they were amazing. We worked our way through some additional shellfish (including Navajas, sweet razor clams also prepared simply with garlic 
and olive oil) before sharing a locally caught grilled Dorada. The wine list features wines from the Catalonia region, which are excellent. We shared an Emporda red blend (even though we had seafood, we 
generally prefer red wine at dinner). This was the first of our 4 nights having dinner at Sa Rascassa, each as wonderful as the first. We found out that Rascassa is the Catalan word for the scorpionfish, which is caught locally and, on the menu, when available. One night we strayed from seafood and were tempted by a Chuleton de Buey,
a thick, bone-in Ribeye that we shared. I took a look at the sizzling hunk of meat they brought to our table, and all I could think was “You Magnificent Bastard” (a gratuitous quote from the movie Patton, for my Chicago friends). Grilled to perfection, it capped off our amazing week at Sa Rascassa.
During our weeks stay, we explored the region. The houses near the coast, especially those situated on terraced plots high above the sea, were typical of the Spanish Mediterranean architecture, with red tiled roofs, inviting swimming pools, and wide vistas of the sea. Further inland you’ll find stone farmhouses, 
called Masias. These traditional houses date as far back as the 16th century, and unrestored Masias are becoming quite rare, as rich Barcelonans have snapped these up over the years, converting them to modern homes and villas. The countryside is dotted with small villages, interspersed with little estates surrounding these Masias. We spent a few days driving around, dreaming about what life might be like if we were fortunate to find one that suited us. There were several around the tiny village of Ullastret, which dates to the pre-Roman Iberian civilization in the 4th
century BC. Here you will find excavated ruins from that era, along with a museum. One of the most interesting towns we visited was Pals, only 15 minutes from Begur. Pals is a medieval town, situated around a Romanesque clock tower built in the 11th century. The town has a restored gothic quarter, with narrow cobblestone streets and arched doorways and passages. As with many of these villages, there is parking outside of the village, as the streets are too narrow and historic for traffic. We walked around the town and toured the church at the top of the village. Nearby is another medieval village 
called Peratallada – which has a moat still partially encircling this historic town. Dating back to the 13th century, parts of the movie Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves were filmed here because of its atmospheric surroundings. Finding several restaurants in the village, we had failed to book for lunch – but were able to find a table at a restaurant with the intriguing name Les Coques del Psss (it’s since closed and re-opened as Cala Nena). We enjoyed a wonderful afternoon having lunch and people watching.
Venturing further north one day, we took a drive to the coastal town of Cadaques, only 33 km from the French border. Cadaques, while frequently described as a sleepy little coastal village, was visited by, and home to, some of the most important artists of the 20th century – Salvador Dalí (who lived 
nearby in Port Lligat), René Magritte, Joan Miró, and Pablo Picasso all spent time here. The drive to Cadaques is notorious – a nausea inducing journey of switchbacks, perilous cliffs, and a distinct lack of guardrails. By the time we reached Cadaques, we both needed a little calm (I think it will remain Paula’s last visit to Cadaques unless we can go by boat!). Fortunately, the town has a picturesque malecon (seafront esplanade), and we enjoyed a walk, finding a nice restaurant on the water. Dali is perhaps most known for his time in Cadaques – and you’ll see the town and its surroundings featured in many Dali 
paintings from his pre-surreal period. The Iglesias de Santa Maria is a 16th century church that dominates a hilltop overlooking the bay. We had some fantastic grilled sardines in Cadaques – fresh from the Mediterranean, along with Pescaditos Fritos – 
tiny fried fish that are eaten whole up and down the coast of Catalunya. There are numerous galleries and shops for fun browsing in the small town, but it was crowded the day we went, and the treacherous drive back to Begur spurred us to leave a little early. Next time we’ll take the seaside walk to visit Port Lligat, where Dali owned a house.
Another day we drove slightly south to visit Llafranc and Calella de Pallafrugell, two joined coastal communities with real sand beaches. The drive down from Begur was spectacular, and we stopped several times to take 
pictures and take in the views. Once again, we wiled away an afternoon sipping sangria at one of the many restaurants along the beach and eating fresh seafood. Look at these red prawns, one of the specialties in this area – we couldn’t get enough of them. We also visited another tiny village near Aiguafreda, called Sa Tuna. While we drove to this beautiful little town, we could have walked from Sa Rascassa – there is a coastal path that connects both communities. We enjoyed the view at Sa Tuna, but liked the peace and tranquility at Aiguafreda a bit more – Sa Tuna had a significant amount of development in the form of terraced villas overlooking the village, and the parking was quite difficult.
All too quickly, it was time to say goodbye to Sa Rascassa and the Costa Brava. We packed up, had our last breakfast at the hotel (included with the 
room, with wonderful fresh fruit and yogurt), and started on the 2-hour drive back to Barcelona. It was a lot of fun to explore this area – one that seems to be quite overlooked by Americans (not as much by my British friends, but many choose the more crowded resort towns to the south). While part of the impetus to visit this area was to scout for potential retirement homes, we ultimately decided that owning a home in Europe that we would only use for part of the year was probably not the best plan for us, and as I described in the first post to this blog, fate ultimately brought us to our home in Maine. While not the same climate as the Costa Brava, the similarities are many – rocky coastline, pine forests, a focus on fresh local seafood, tiny fishing villages, and yes, very cold water! However, we will definitely return to the Costa Brava for more exploration, and in particular, to stay at Sa Rascassa. If you’ve thought about someday visiting Spain, by all means, visit Barcelona (one of our favourite cities) – but do yourself a favour and venture a bit further north of Barcelona – you’ll be rewarded with a more authentic experience in Catalunya.
Recommendations
Obviously, our highest recommendation is for Sa Rascassa, both for food and to stay. With only 5 rooms, this place books up quickly – but it really should be on your list of places to go. If you can’t get in at Sa Rascassa, another alternative recommended by Rita Fryer is the Hotel Aigua Blava, in nearby Fornells. Speaking of Rita, while we’ve lost touch with her somewhat, I see she has a business in Barcelona focused on luxury rentals. Knowing Rita, she probably has places to rent in the Costa Brava as well, so definitely seek her out – she’s a nice person and was very helpful to us. As for the rest – just go and explore – there are wineries; Roman ruins; medieval castles; museums; galleries all over the region. It’s very accessible and almost impossible to get lost – but go ahead and try anyway, you’ll have fun. To quote a recent HGTV show we keep seeing “Just get up and do it!”.
