It’s a shame that generally the only thing people know about Catalunya (or Catalonia in English) is Barcelona (and perhaps the Catalan fight for independence from Spain). Yet there is much more to Catalunya than Barcelona. Today I want to introduce you to the beautiful region known at the Costa Brava – roughly translated as Wild Coast. The Costa Brava is a gorgeous area north of Barcelona, very accessible, and full of history. We love Barcelona, and strongly encourage a visit – but if you have more time, and 
want to explore beyond Barcelona, the Costa Brava should be top of your list! And for my British friends out there – this article is focused on the area outside of Tossa del Mar, Lloret del Mar – while you can have a perfectly good holiday in those areas, I’m talking about the places where you won’t find a full English breakfast!
“I was at the top of a rugged cliff, which tumbles to the sea below in a rush of rocks passing by green agaves and golden wild fennel. To the south-west, the placid curve of the beaches of Blanes and Sabanell, as far as Tordera Point, separated by a rocky islet (Sa Palomera) which an isthmus has joined to the land, fixing one’s gaze and understanding, exultant at the spectacle of the Costa Brava”
Ferran Agulló from a 1908 Article in La Veu de Catalunya
The Catalan poet Ferran Agulló was said to have christened this area of Catalunya, the Costa Brava, in an article from 1908 promoting the region’s wild beauty. It stretches from the north, where it borders France in the Eastern Pyrenees, down along the coast to Blanes, and inland to the mountainous area north of Girona. This is a region steeped in historical significance. Inhabited since the middle Paleolithic (approximately 200,000 years ago), the region has seen numerous waves of occupation given its unique location. In pre-Roman times, the area was the northernmost region populated by the Iberians. The area was then invaded by the Carthaginians, who were subsequently 
defeated by the Romans. After the fall of the Roman empire, the area saw various invasions and rule by Visigoths, Muslims, and the Frankish empire. It was around this time (middle ages, 1100) that the first identity as Catalunya began. The area was an important part of the Kingdom of Aragon in the middle ages, and evidence of this history is visible in the many well preserved medieval villages in this region – including Pals, Peratallada, Foixà, Monells, and La Bisbal d’Empordà.
Returning to the present, this story begins with a book – 1001 Escapes to Experience Before You Die. Usually I don’t like 
these bucket-list type books – it makes me think too much of my own mortality – but I discovered this one day while googling around for unique places to visit in Spain and Italy. This sentence hooked me “At the end of a narrow road in an idyllic bay…”. Further googling revealed a picture from an article in a Spanish magazine called “Solos en una cala”– water so crystal clear that boats appear to be floating in midair. I wanted in. 
I added it to my list of places to someday visit (but probably not – that was back when “someday” meant “probably never”). Flash forward to a few years ago (haha!). Paula and I had been dreaming about the potential to buy a small house in Italy or Spain where we could live for part of the year in our “retirement”. Our wish list was: smaller village; close access to larger town with health care; near the sea; away from heavy tourist zones; reasonably priced area; strong local culture of food and wine; reasonable access to airport (2-3 hours). The Costa Brava area ticked all our boxes – and it had the advantage of being Spanish speaking (well…partially Spanish speaking as Catalan is the first language). I had started to poke around real estate listings when I came across Rita Fryer, a US expat who had been living in Spain for more than 25 years, working as a buyer’s agent specializing in Costa Brava real estate. Rita (who now focuses on Barcelona www.barcelonaluxuryrentals.com) was very pleasant and forthcoming with lots of information about the area. As she had an apartment in NYC and was visiting there soon, we arranged for Rita to have dinner with us at our apartment. We had a great time learning a bit about Rita’s life in Spain (although American, she was, for all practical purposes, a Brit, as she had been married for many years to a British national). We asked her for suggestions on where to stay if we came over for an exploration visit, and without hesitation she said “Sa Rascassa”. Wait a minute – wasn’t that the place in 1001 Escapes to Experience Before You Die? It was…the very same. Now we had to go – fate was pushing us along. A plan soon came together for our summer trip.
Based on advice from Rita, we decided to use the area around Begur as a base of operations. Begur is a beautiful little town very close to the coast, featuring a prominent, crumbling 11th century medieval castle built on the highest hill in the area. It has an interesting history, and it became prosperous this century from Begurians returning from Cuba. See, Cuba was a Spanish colony in the 19th century, and many people from Begur had immigrated to Cuba to seek their fortune in the Americas. Some made their fortunes in sugar and rum in Cuba, 
and some of these wealthy folks became a bit homesick. Many returned to Begur, building large homes with their new-found wealth from Havana. You’ll still see architectural styles in Begur from Cuba, and every year they still have a Cuban festival in Begur to celebrate the connection. As an aside, Facundo Bacardi was another one of these Spanish immigrants to Cuba, finding his fortune in the rum empire he founded. Bacardi was from Sitges, also in Catalunya, but a little further south down the coast. I’ll have another post one day that talks about Sitges – it’s another great little town to visit.
So, with Begur decided as our base, we arranged the rest of the details of our trip. If you decide to visit this area as we did (to explore), you will absolutely need a car. While there are trains up the coast, and some buses, this is a relatively rural area that will require a car to see it efficiently. Our plan was to fly to Barcelona; pick up a rental car at the airport; head up to the Costa Brava for 4-5 days; then return to Barcelona for a few days before coming home. For those that haven’t driven in Spain, you’ll find it very easy. The highway system is well maintained; signage is clearly marked; and, other than some of the smaller villages, the roads are generally wider than those found in some of the other European countries (like England). That said, you will want to avoid, if you can, trying to rent a large car or SUV – parking spaces really cater to 
smaller vehicles; gas is relatively expensive; and in some of the smaller villages, you will find difficulty navigating. If you can’t drive a stick shift, make sure you specify an automatic – unless you specify, you are likely to get a standard (this happened to me on my first trip to Argentina – and they had no automatics…I drove a stick for the first time in 25 years, while navigating the crazy traffic of Buenos Aires…Paula had fun!). We picked up the car and headed north on the highway. As you leave the greater Barcelona area, the Catalan countryside unfolds before you. The main highway towards Girona travels along a valley, with a mountainous area to the west, and the rocky promontories of the coast to the east. We could just as easily have established our base in Girona – it’s a medium sized city with a tremendous amount of history, and a beautiful old section. However, we were looking for a quieter base of operations – and the beautiful little gem of Sa Rascassa beckoned.
Cala d’Aiguafreda is a stunning cove, situated, as that original article mentioned, at the end of an “idyllic road”. As you leave the heights of Begur, you wind your way down along switchback roads, through a pine forest, with 
glimpses of stunning coastal vistas each time your break through the trees. The air here reminds me of Maine – fresh pine and the faint scent of the sea. The water is absolutely crystal clear, and you can see why this is a favourite area for scuba divers and snorkelers. We found our way to the end of the road – literally – which terminates in a public parking lot providing access to the water. This was also the parking lot of Sa Rascassa, our home for the next 5 days. Sa Rascassa started life in 1916, built as a private home when Aiguafreda was a private cove. 
Over the years it became a holiday camp, and then a diving center. It was acquired by Oscar Gorriz, and his wife Merche, in 2002. Oscar had owned an advertising agency in Barcelona but was looking for a different pace of life when he came across the house. His vision was to convert the existing structure into a small restaurant and offer a few rooms above the restaurant. The restaurant setting, especially at night, is truly magical, with both indoor and outdoor 
seating. The outdoor tables are situated under a number of old trees, with fairy lights twinkling. You are close enough to the water to hear the gentle lapping of waves and smell the salt air. Upstairs are 5 rooms – simple, clean, and inviting. 
Those looking for lavish luxury won’t find it here – but if you’re looking for a quiet, tranquil, hidden cove setting – this is the place. We were quickly checked in at the restaurant/office below and directed to head up the outside stairs to the level above where we would find 
our rooms. The rooms sit directly above the restaurant and are arranged facing a private gravel patio with tables and umbrellas. From this level there is a gorgeous view of Aiguafreda, along with a private path to the cove steps below. We found our room, which had a chalkboard sign out front indicating “Paula y Steve” – a wonderful touch that made us feel right at home. We quickly unpacked and headed down the path to visit Aiguafreda.
It was a hot August day, and so we threw on our swimsuits. The cove has a small “beach bar” (there really isn’t a beach as it’s a rocky cove, typical of the Mediterranean), also operated by Oscar, where you can get cold draft beer and a variety of small bites. There is a public access on the other side of the bar, as well as a small diving center. When we arrived, there were several people enjoying a beer in the rustic setting, and several others just returning from a 
dive trip. The crystal-clear water sparkled in the sun, and there were a few people snorkeling in the tiny cove. Several boats bobbed just offshore. Paula approached the water and dipped her toe – I could tell by her reaction that there wouldn’t be any swimming here for Paula…too cold! Like Maine, the waters here are frigid – 
obviously your first clue is in the name – Aiguafreda. Paula set her towel on a flat rock and enjoyed the sun. I was determined to get in that water. Rather than acclimate with slow torture, I jumped in…Yikes! As I caught my breath from the shock of the water, I realized Paula had made the right decision. But after my initial convulsions, the contrast between the hot August sun and the water was enjoyable, and we spent a lazy afternoon in the cove, followed by a long nap in our room.
As beautiful as Sa Rascassa was during the day, it really came alive at night. The restaurant doesn’t open until 8:30pm, very typical of Catalunya (and Argentina!). We were lucky we had booked with Oscar prior to our arrival – the 
restaurant is very popular and indeed was fully booked the first night of our stay. Choosing to eat outside under those magical lights, we had a cold glass of Cava (sparkling white wine like Prosecco or Champagne) from the region and perused the menu. The menu was wide-ranging but focused primarily on the fresh seafood from the area. There were several specials that featured whatever the chef happened to purchase that day from the fisherman in the area. This is the type of food we like best – fresh, local, and simply prepared. Catalunya is known for its high standard of food, particularly 
in Girona where there are over 12 restaurants which have earned a Michelin star. Girona became the poster child for the avant-garde gastronomic movement, and El Cellar de Can Roca, a 3-star Michelin restaurant, has variously been named the best restaurant in the world. But that’s not the type of restaurant that Paula and I enjoy the most – restaurants that take a year or more to get a reservation, and that feature lengthy tasting menus. We much prefer the simple, but sophisticated approach like at Sa Rascassa, which puts the freshness of the local seafood, and produce, front and center. We started with Tallarinas, extremely tiny clams (I believe they are a variety of coquinas) sautéed quickly in olive oil and white wine – they were amazing. We worked our way through some additional shellfish (including Navajas, sweet razor clams also prepared simply with garlic 
and olive oil) before sharing a locally caught grilled Dorada. The wine list features wines from the Catalonia region, which are excellent. We shared an Emporda red blend (even though we had seafood, we 
generally prefer red wine at dinner). This was the first of our 4 nights having dinner at Sa Rascassa, each as wonderful as the first. We found out that Rascassa is the Catalan word for the scorpionfish, which is caught locally and, on the menu, when available. One night we strayed from seafood and were tempted by a Chuleton de Buey,
a thick, bone-in Ribeye that we shared. I took a look at the sizzling hunk of meat they brought to our table, and all I could think was “You Magnificent Bastard” (a gratuitous quote from the movie Patton, for my Chicago friends). Grilled to perfection, it capped off our amazing week at Sa Rascassa.
During our weeks stay, we explored the region. The houses near the coast, especially those situated on terraced plots high above the sea, were typical of the Spanish Mediterranean architecture, with red tiled roofs, inviting swimming pools, and wide vistas of the sea. Further inland you’ll find stone farmhouses, 
called Masias. These traditional houses date as far back as the 16th century, and unrestored Masias are becoming quite rare, as rich Barcelonans have snapped these up over the years, converting them to modern homes and villas. The countryside is dotted with small villages, interspersed with little estates surrounding these Masias. We spent a few days driving around, dreaming about what life might be like if we were fortunate to find one that suited us. There were several around the tiny village of Ullastret, which dates to the pre-Roman Iberian civilization in the 4th
century BC. Here you will find excavated ruins from that era, along with a museum. One of the most interesting towns we visited was Pals, only 15 minutes from Begur. Pals is a medieval town, situated around a Romanesque clock tower built in the 11th century. The town has a restored gothic quarter, with narrow cobblestone streets and arched doorways and passages. As with many of these villages, there is parking outside of the village, as the streets are too narrow and historic for traffic. We walked around the town and toured the church at the top of the village. Nearby is another medieval village 
called Peratallada – which has a moat still partially encircling this historic town. Dating back to the 13th century, parts of the movie Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves were filmed here because of its atmospheric surroundings. Finding several restaurants in the village, we had failed to book for lunch – but were able to find a table at a restaurant with the intriguing name Les Coques del Psss (it’s since closed and re-opened as Cala Nena). We enjoyed a wonderful afternoon having lunch and people watching.
Venturing further north one day, we took a drive to the coastal town of Cadaques, only 33 km from the French border. Cadaques, while frequently described as a sleepy little coastal village, was visited by, and home to, some of the most important artists of the 20th century – Salvador Dalí (who lived 
nearby in Port Lligat), René Magritte, Joan Miró, and Pablo Picasso all spent time here. The drive to Cadaques is notorious – a nausea inducing journey of switchbacks, perilous cliffs, and a distinct lack of guardrails. By the time we reached Cadaques, we both needed a little calm (I think it will remain Paula’s last visit to Cadaques unless we can go by boat!). Fortunately, the town has a picturesque malecon (seafront esplanade), and we enjoyed a walk, finding a nice restaurant on the water. Dali is perhaps most known for his time in Cadaques – and you’ll see the town and its surroundings featured in many Dali 
paintings from his pre-surreal period. The Iglesias de Santa Maria is a 16th century church that dominates a hilltop overlooking the bay. We had some fantastic grilled sardines in Cadaques – fresh from the Mediterranean, along with Pescaditos Fritos – 
tiny fried fish that are eaten whole up and down the coast of Catalunya. There are numerous galleries and shops for fun browsing in the small town, but it was crowded the day we went, and the treacherous drive back to Begur spurred us to leave a little early. Next time we’ll take the seaside walk to visit Port Lligat, where Dali owned a house.
Another day we drove slightly south to visit Llafranc and Calella de Pallafrugell, two joined coastal communities with real sand beaches. The drive down from Begur was spectacular, and we stopped several times to take 
pictures and take in the views. Once again, we wiled away an afternoon sipping sangria at one of the many restaurants along the beach and eating fresh seafood. Look at these red prawns, one of the specialties in this area – we couldn’t get enough of them. We also visited another tiny village near Aiguafreda, called Sa Tuna. While we drove to this beautiful little town, we could have walked from Sa Rascassa – there is a coastal path that connects both communities. We enjoyed the view at Sa Tuna, but liked the peace and tranquility at Aiguafreda a bit more – Sa Tuna had a significant amount of development in the form of terraced villas overlooking the village, and the parking was quite difficult.
All too quickly, it was time to say goodbye to Sa Rascassa and the Costa Brava. We packed up, had our last breakfast at the hotel (included with the 
room, with wonderful fresh fruit and yogurt), and started on the 2-hour drive back to Barcelona. It was a lot of fun to explore this area – one that seems to be quite overlooked by Americans (not as much by my British friends, but many choose the more crowded resort towns to the south). While part of the impetus to visit this area was to scout for potential retirement homes, we ultimately decided that owning a home in Europe that we would only use for part of the year was probably not the best plan for us, and as I described in the first post to this blog, fate ultimately brought us to our home in Maine. While not the same climate as the Costa Brava, the similarities are many – rocky coastline, pine forests, a focus on fresh local seafood, tiny fishing villages, and yes, very cold water! However, we will definitely return to the Costa Brava for more exploration, and in particular, to stay at Sa Rascassa. If you’ve thought about someday visiting Spain, by all means, visit Barcelona (one of our favourite cities) – but do yourself a favour and venture a bit further north of Barcelona – you’ll be rewarded with a more authentic experience in Catalunya.
Recommendations
Obviously, our highest recommendation is for Sa Rascassa, both for food and to stay. With only 5 rooms, this place books up quickly – but it really should be on your list of places to go. If you can’t get in at Sa Rascassa, another alternative recommended by Rita Fryer is the Hotel Aigua Blava, in nearby Fornells. Speaking of Rita, while we’ve lost touch with her somewhat, I see she has a business in Barcelona focused on luxury rentals. Knowing Rita, she probably has places to rent in the Costa Brava as well, so definitely seek her out – she’s a nice person and was very helpful to us. As for the rest – just go and explore – there are wineries; Roman ruins; medieval castles; museums; galleries all over the region. It’s very accessible and almost impossible to get lost – but go ahead and try anyway, you’ll have fun. To quote a recent HGTV show we keep seeing “Just get up and do it!”.
could have been a little bird, perched on a branch on any evening at Le Bois, what would you have seen and heard? You would have seen a small collection of stone buildings, bathed in a golden light. There would be a purple glow on the horizon as the sun set over a field of grain, with a warm breeze carrying the scent of fertile ground. 
Coming from the vicinity of a large willow tree, you would have heard the slight tinkling of glasses – but more than anything you would have heard the sound of laughter. If you’ve ever thought about visiting France; or if you’ve been to Paris and now want to explore other areas of France; or you just like thinking about a warm place at the end of a tough winter, then read on.
There was a porter steering an enormous luggage cart piled high with bags – which was odd as: (a) we were wheeling our own bags; and (b) one of the other two couples were wheeling their own. Oh well, I thought – perhaps there are several other couples who are already waiting by the van. Nope…no other people (Ok, I admit, the picture isn’t of the luggage cart – quite). As we settled into the van, we met our ride-mates. One couple was young, and clearly not too interested in anyone else. The other were our age, and we struck up a conversation. Andy and Jayne were British, from Hull, and on the end of a long holiday. They had spent a week or so exploring the northeast US, and were now winding down with a beach week. The luggage, as we found out, was theirs – packing light wasn’t one of their strong suits, but we all had a good laugh about it, and had a pleasant drive to the resort. We soon became fast friends, and had a fantastic week on the beach. We learned more about them – Andy had his own financial services business; Jayne operated a day care; they had two college age children; and, we learned, they owned Le Bois – a holiday “compound” in the 
Loire (pronounced “lwahr”) Valley. The friendship blossomed, and invitations to get together again soon followed – we had them to our apartment in New York, and we all went to Jamaica again the following year. As we were planning for a trip to Europe the next summer, Andy and Jayne suggested we spend a week with them in the Loire. “The Loire”…”Spending a week in the Loire”…it sounded so posh…and lots of fun – we quickly agreed lest they decided to withdraw the offer!
with numerous Chateaux and stately homes, and bisected by the Loire river. The valley’s terroir produces some lovely wines, particularly around the towns of Saumur and Chinon. The landscape is characterized by rolling hills, forests, rural villages and agriculture. The area is still an important agricultural region of France, including significant beef, pork, poultry, milk and grains. It is also well known for producing Cremant de Loire, a sparkling wine (essentially a 
Champagne – you can’t call it Champagne because only sparkling wines from Champagne can be called Champagne) made primarily from Chenin Blanc in this region. The Cremant is wonderful and refreshing, with flavors of pear, lemon, and honey predominant.
Lunch (La Fou du Roy) was all you could want from France – fresh seafood, amazing wine, and slow pacing. We shared some oysters – nearby Brittany is one of the worlds largest oyster producing regions, and the Breton oysters are not to be missed. The French are very particular about origin and provenance, especially for their seafood – and the restaurant was happy to tell us not only where the oysters were harvested, but when and by who. 
Farm to table is part of their culture. We reluctantly pushed ourselves from the table and headed to Loire Valley Gites, Jayne and Andy’s complex of cottages deep in the countryside. A gite is the French term for a furnished vacation property for rent, typically in rural 
areas. We wound our way through the landscape, passing through many small villages. As we left the little village of Meigne le Vicomte, we turned down a country road, through a few fields and forests, before turning on to the entrance road to Le Bois, our home for the next week.
farmland. When Andy and Jayne discovered the property, it was in considerable disrepair. The original buildings dated from 1750, and comprised the center of a farm property. The previous owner had made an initial start to try to renovate the property, but age and interest caught up with him. Andy said they had been looking for a property for quite some time, but they knew immediately upon surveying the complex of falling down buildings that this was the one for them. A multi-year renovation process resulted in the gites as they are today. One unique and 
distinguishing characteristic of the buildings is the use of tuffeau stone, a local limestone. The yellowish patina on the stone hints at the age of the structures, and drips with character. Andy and Jayne wanted to maintain the original style of the buildings as much as possible – so while completely updated in terms of modern conveniences, the buildings exude ambiance. Farm buildings of this style were typically built in a
post and beam style, with large oak or chestnut timbers. The inside of Le Bois is just spectacular – exposed beams throughout that have been restored, stained, and sealed. I was very impressed with the upper level, where the exposed beams provide a loft-like feel in the bedrooms. You need to be careful in a few areas not to bump your head on one of the cross-beams – one of the compromises of keeping the architectural integrity of the original structure. But it all adds to the charm. We opened the windows in our bedroom and unpacked. While it was a very hot day, the room was cool – another feature of maintaining the original structure, which have thick walls that insulate the inside to a cool temperature. The lilac scented breeze carried in the sounds of the 
countryside – a few songbirds, a distant tractor, and the peace and tranquility of this private setting.
and croissant in the kitchen, we would plan the days activities. There is a lot to do in this region, from visiting one of the many chateaux, to doing wine tours or even kayaking down the Loire river. Or one of our favourite activities – just doing nothing! Le Bois has a 
wonderful heated pool, and we spent several lazy days just hanging around in the pool. One of our first visits was to market day in Langeais, a larger village about 25 minutes away. Langeais has an outstanding medieval castle in its center, dominating the quaint village. We love to explore local markets, and the one at Langeais was 
picture perfect. Local farmers and assorted food producers from the region displayed their products and encouraged us to sample. Both cows and goats milk cheeses are made locally. Selles-sur-Cher is a wonderful, slightly salty goats milk cheese. Cure Nantais is an orange washed rind cows milk cheese with a fantastic smokey, almost bacony, flavor. The 
charcuterie was even more local – various terrines, pates, and saucisson sec. We soon found ourselves loaded down with lots of goodies to try back at Le Bois, along with various baguettes. Andy and I share certain philosophies and views, and we both agreed that, as we were exercising regularly with trips back and forth from the house to the pool for more beer, we felt certain that the additional calories would not be an issue! Another day we all visited a chateau called Chateau de Villandry. It was originally built in the 14th century. 
The gardens were stunning – laid out in a Renaissance style, it was my favourite part of the visit (well, actually my favourite part was the lunch we had at La Doulce Terasse!). The historic significance of this region is very prominent. This was the center of the Duchy of Aquitaine, and the home of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine (famously portrayed by Peter O’Toole and Katherine Hepburn in The Lion in Winter). When King Phillip of France was unsuccessful in peace negotiations with Henry II, his army, allied with Richard the Lionheart (Henry’s son – a true family dispute!), drove Henry in retreat through this region to Henry’s home in Chinon, where he died. Henry II, his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine, and their son Richard the Lionheart are all buried at Fontevraud Abbey, near Chinon. It’s another one of the many interesting things about this region.
We had many great lunches as we explored the region. As we would typically spend the late afternoon and dinner at Le Bois, we reserved our local gastronomic explorations for lunchtime. The French certainly know how to do lunch the proper way. You are never rushed; wine is always part of the meal; and the food is always local. Our typical pattern was to order the house wine – a tip I give to everyone, especially when you are travelling in wine producing regions. The house wine will be what the locals drink; it will always be good; and it will always be the least expensive wine on the menu. We were fortunate that the Loire valley produces some of the best wine in France. While known primarily for white and rose wines, there are also good red wines, especially 
those near Chinon, in the St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil area. During the day, we would generally stick with white or rose, chilled as it was very hot this time of year (August). In the evening, at Le Bois, we would start with a nice sparkling Cremant, and then usually have a Bourgueil red wine (generally made from Cabernet Franc). The wineries in this region are all small, and generally family owned and run. There are numerous wine tours – Andy and Jayne usually worked in a tour or two when they were hosting family or friends (although Jayne doesn’t drink still wine, Andy picks up the slack for the Craggs family!). One place which really stood out for us as outstanding food and value was Le Bouff’tard, a little unassuming restaurant in a small village called Hommes. 
While not much to look at from the outside, the food, service, and value at Le Bouff’tard were exceptional. We went twice, once on each of our two visits, and both times had the prix fixe lunch menu with house wine. It was hard to believe that such good food could be served for under 16 euros per person. We had other memorable lunches in Saumur and Chinon – usually some type of seafood from Normandy or Brittany, along with local produce. It’s fun to explore this region of little villages. Like we often do while travelling, we get the itch to look at local real estate and dream about converting a little farmhouse of our own. We went out one day to look at a pretty little tuffeau stone cottage and associated 
barns, which had been partially restored, including an inviting swimming pool set within the foundation of an old ruin. I was ready to buy then, and there – but Paula, who is the more rational of the two of us, brought me to my senses. As we were leaving the grounds, Andy backed into a deep drainage on one side of the entrance road, and promptly got his rather expensive SUV stuck. We all got out to have a look – noting the back driver-side wheel just hanging in mid-air, unable to gain traction. We had visions of waiting hours for a tow truck, but for one of the few times in life, I was able to come to the rescue. I noticed a large piece of timber lying in the opposite ditch, which I dragged over and wedged under the wheel. With me pushing down for leverage, Andy was able to work the SUV out of its predicament…and Andy, bless his heart, dubbed me “Action Man” for coming to the rescue! Unfortunately it’s a nickname I would never be able to live up to – sorry Andy!
starting with cheese and charcuterie from our market trips, along with bread from the local bakery. We had talked about doing pizza during one of our trips, and one day we decided to do it. As both Andy and I have a competitive streak, we decided to each make a pizza and then have Jayne and Paula judge which was best. I totally ignored form and tried to focus on simplicity and flavor. Andy, being British, made sure his pizza was properly formed…that is, 
round – vs. my somewhat free form shape. While the girls ultimately refused to crown a winner, I had to tip my hat to Andy’s more traditional shape! On both of our trips, the week went by far too quickly, and it was soon time to say goodbye. For us, and I’m sure for most of you as well, trips like these are always most memorable when we can share them with family or friends. While these types of settings are beautiful by themselves, it’s the time spent with people you love that create long lasting memories. The Loire isn’t necessarily the first area you will think of when considering or planning a trip to France. Clearly, if its your first time in France, you’ll want to spend some days in Paris. But I encourage you to consider visiting this often overlooked region. Its affordable, and will really give you a strong sense of “going local”. As we finished our quick weekend in Orlando visiting Andy and Jayne (who are on holiday in the US), it was great fun remembering the good times we had on these trips. Thank you Andy and Jayne for the laughter, all of the lovely memories, and more to come.
three bedrooms, including a large master bedroom with en suite. The house has a large country kitchen, living room, and dining area. Le Bucheron is an adjacent holiday cottage which sleeps an additional 4 people, and includes its own kitchen, dining, and living room. The compound includes BBQ grills, a heated swimming pool, and is set on 2 very private acres in the French countryside near Meigne Le Vicomte. The property is well maintained, and Andy and Jayne can help you plan your trip with lots of information on local things to do.
tram ride from the train station – you may want to book in advance. It’s worth a trip to the little village of Hommes to eat at La Bouff’tard (5 Place du Huit Mai, 37340 Hommes) – go for lunch and get the prix fixe – it will be the best value meal you find in this region. In Chinon, I would recommend Bistrot de la Place (47 Place du Général de Gaulle, 37500 Chinon), which sits adjacent to a beautiful square with fountain. In Saumur, we really enjoyed 
were fantastic. Also near Saumur, try 
region is known for. We liked 
in 1101, it is the final resting place of Henry II, Eleanor of Aquitaine, and Richard the Lionheart. Finally, another fun thing to do, especially in the summer, is to kayak down the Loire. The river is not that deep, and not extremely swift. There are many places to rent the kayaks – we used
Doesn’t that look great? Well, that’s not what I’m experiencing right now. Wow, what a day! Here we are, mid-March, and our third Nor’easter in 2 weeks! Ok, I have to be honest here. First, the picture below is from a storm we had around the Christmas holidays. However, it represents what I imagine are the conditions in Maine at present. Second, I’m not actually in Maine right now – 
I’m in NYC…and while we are getting a little bit of snow, it’s nowhere near to being a Nor’easter. But given the general conditions, I thought it might be fun to do a post on somewhere warm (especially for my friend, Jim, who hates the cold weather) – in this case, Cavallo Island. You’ve never heard of Cavallo Island? I thought so…and up until a few years ago, neither had I. So, refill your coffee, and read on – I’ll tell you a bit about an amazingly undiscovered little slice of paradise.
A few years ago, we were thinking about what we would do for the summer. Our usual pattern was to visit Europe – picking a few places, trying to spend at least a few days on or near a beach, and trying to limit the number of places so that we didn’t spend all our time getting from place A to place B. We knew we would spend a week with some good friends who own a fantastic converted farmhouse in the Loire Valley. But what to do after that? Originally, the plan was for Greece – neither of us had been to Greece; we love the food and culture; and we really wanted some beach time. However, as we started to plan for the trip, the refugee crisis had hit the Greek islands particularly hard. One of my Greek acquaintances had suggested that it probably wasn’t the best time to explore the Greek islands. Disappointed, I started to research alternatives to Greece that would give us what we wanted – crystal clear, warm Mediterranean waters; access to good food; quiet and relaxing. There were a few candidates, ranging from the Balearic Islands in Spain, to the Croatian coast, to the little islands making up Malta in the south. But nothing seemed quite what we were looking for.
about the island, and in part, that’s what attracted us. An undiscovered (well, at least this decade) paradise. We were very intrigued…or at least, I was. My wife loves to travel, but she doesn’t get into the planning process as much as I. Not that she can’t plan – she’s great at it. But Paula is slightly more “go with the flow” than I am. Does it tick her minimum boxes? Yes? Ok, book it. Whereas I like to spend hours comparing different places; reading reviews; considering all the alternatives; and then make what I always believe (in my own mind!) is the best selection one could make! But the searching and planning are all part of the fun for me. After further research we discovered that there was one hotel on the island, one small port, a couple of additional small restaurants, and various villas and homes (some of which could be rented). So not a huge selection for accommodation. But the hotel looked nice (and had good reviews), and the 
beaches…ah the beaches looked stunning… and solitary. This was not a place to “do things”. This was a place to relax, unwind, eat, drink wine, and…just do nothing. In fact, this was exactly what we were looking for. I quickly booked a week, and we started to think about other arrangements. This was not, as we would find, an easy place to get to – and perhaps why it has remained relatively undiscovered.
options. When I inquired about the cost, it turned out that the helicopter charter was offering a discount – $400 per person, including taxi transfer to the heliport at Olbia. The boat option was somewhat less expensive, but not by a lot – $300 per person, including the taxi transfer. So, for an extra $200, we could arrive via helicopter (sounded very “Bond-ish”), and shorten our transfer time by a few hours – yes! we were in! Keeping in mind that the airline cost from Paris to Sardinia was extraordinarily cheap ($50 per person – unbelievable), we quickly rationalized the all-in cost of $450 per person from Paris as being reasonable. Done. Our dreams were, however, dashed a week before our arrival. I hadn’t heard from the helicopter charter we had booked, so called the hotel. “Oh, they stopped doing flights to Cavallo”…What!?? It’s a good thing I called, because nobody thought to tell us of the cancellation. “Not to worry”, she said, “we have an alternative helicopter charter” – $900 per person! Well, there go the jetsetter dreams (and don’t tease me about “someday” and actuating my dreams!). We opted for the taxi/boat transfer. It didn’t turn out so bad – a pleasant 1-hour taxi ride from 
Olbia to the north Sardinian port town of Santa Teresa Gallura, and then an 45-minute boat ride to Cavallo. The taxi driver spoke no English, but Paula understands Italian well, and we enjoyed a pleasant chat, with Paula translating, while he told us about Sardinia. It’s a beautiful island in its own right – rocky, dry, with significant terrain – mountainous areas that plunge to the sea. We both noted that it’s a place worth further exploration (although, sadly, we haven’t returned). We had time to have a lovely drink at the port while waiting for the boat, and a pleasant boat ride to Cavallo. Our week of relaxation was about to begin.
hotel, Hotel des Pecheurs, is open seasonally, May through September. It is situated right on the water, with its own beach. Most of the rooms have sea views; a few even have terraces right on the water. The rooms are small, but 
nicely appointed. The hotel itself is well maintained – there is a beautiful beach, a pool, two restaurants (only one open for dinner), and a spa. It is a bit pricey, but you have to realize that, in part, you are paying for the outstanding location. This isn’t a place we would splurge for every year – but it’s worth a splurge for a special occasion. Our bags were picked up at the 
small port, and we were taken to the hotel via golf cart. Oh, I forgot to mention…there are no cars on Cavallo – bikes and golf carts only. Given the small size of the island, it’s not surprising – and it makes the place seem even more remote and quaint. There is a meandering perimeter road around the island, and while much of the island is relatively flat, there is a hill that rises in the center of the island to about 100 ft. We quickly settled into a daily routine. Up early, full breakfast in the hotel dining area (open air, and overlooking the water). Head to the Hotel beach – lounge around, snorkel, enjoy the water – then lunch at the beach café, followed by a bike ride, walk, or golf cart ride to one of the other beaches (there are six on 
Cavallo); back to the Hotel for a nap before dinner; dinner al fresco by the water; early night to bed – then repeat with slight variations. We rented a golf cart one day to explore all the beaches (one of the beaches, Rose beach, was inaccessible to all but residents of the area); we had a couple’s massage outside, in an open-air tent by the pool – but really, it was all 
about…doing nothing. Now for us, that was great – its what we wanted. It’s not for everyone – several of my friends would be climbing the walls – they aren’t good at just relaxing. But we loved it.
trips where, I believe, everyone is living within a Rick Steves bubble. I quickly got out of there. But back to Cavallo. One morning we met this Italian couple at the beach. They seemed interesting, although I noticed he walked a bit awkwardly. “Hi, I am Marco” he said as he smiled and shook my hand. We had a drink with them and learned that they were from northern Italy; that they were staying in Sardinia; and that they decided to come over to Cavallo for part of their trip. Very pleasant chap. The next morning, I was in the water, getting ready to put my snorkeling mask on, and I noticed Marco wading nearby. I smiled at him, and just as I was about to say, “Good morning, Marco”, he smiled, shook my hand, and said “Hi, I am Marco”… hmmm – didn’t we do that yesterday? Was this Groundhog Day? Oh well, perhaps he was a bit tipsy yesterday, met a lot of people, and forgot. The following day we were lounging on the beach, and Marco and his girlfriend took the loungers next to us. He walked over, shook my hand, and said…you guessed it…” Hi, I am Marco”, and proceeded to tell me, once again, about himself. Seeing the look on my face, his girlfriend confided in Paula while we were in 
the water. Apparently, Marco had had a severe skiing accident the winter before; he was recovering, but it was partially a head injury and the result was a loss of short term memory. This explained the odd behavior- and then I began to look forward to meeting Marco again each day, anew – despite the short-term memory loss and recovery, he was always in good spirits and loved to tell me about his life.
that boats were prohibited from anchoring within the cove. While we were sunbathing, a boat approached, and anchored right in the middle of the cove. There were about 4 people on board – they anchored, broke out the snorkels, and started swimming around the boat. One of the ladies was preparing some lunch. I noticed a couple of people came out of their villas and shouted something at the boat – which was met with casual indifference by the boat people. About 10 minutes later the cops (in this case, the French Gendarmes) showed up at the beach. They were armed with…a whistle. They began shouting and whistling at the boat, pointing out the large sign which clearly prohibited anchoring. The boat people just waived the cops off – again, 
a casual indifference – they were clearly not going to respond to the threat of a whistle. The cops, visibly pissed, left. But about 15 minutes later I spied a boat rapidly approaching on the horizon – the Gendarmes were back, but this time with their own boat! That got the attention of the partygoers – they quickly scrambled back to their boat, but by now, the police boat was alongside. The Gendarmes boarded, and searched the offending boat. I figured the people 
late lunch there one day to just get a change from the hotel restaurants. The restaurant sent someone in a golf cart to pick us up. The setting is outstanding – with a magnificent view of the entire island. The food was also outstanding – simple seafood and pasta, with pizza as well (although to be clear, this is more than just a pizza place). We were disappointed that we didn’t discover this place earlier in our trip, as we would have spent more time here. The snorkeling on Cavallo is awesome – crystal clear, warm Mediterranean waters, with many rocky grottoes. It’s very shallow all around the island, making for a pleasant experience for novice snorkelers like me. Before we knew it, the week was at an end and we were headed back to 
Sardinia to begin our trip home. Recently, I came across several articles about an amazing fellow named Mauro Morandi. He is the sole inhabitant of a small island (Budelli) that is very close to Cavallo. Travel and Leisure has an 
rented. There are some apartments near the port that are clearly holiday rentals – while these won’t be expensive, they are not, by any stretch, luxurious. However, Cavallo is one of those places that would be great for a large group of people – chip in and rent one of the villas right on the water – it truly will be memorable. The hotel, however, is great – highly recommended. For villas and rentals, check the usual places (Airbnb, etc.).
counting the little gelato shop near the port) – the hotel restaurants, and 