Living the Loire Life

Living the Loire Life

Well folks, it’s still snowing like mad in Maine.  While almost late March, there are several feet of snow on the ground, and it’s 22 degrees outside (that’s Fahrenheit, for my Argentinian and European friends).  To be truthful once again, though – we are currently sitting by a lovely swimming pool at a house near Orlando.  We managed to get away for the weekend, combining a long overdue visit to see my parents (and get them their first smartphone!) with the serendipitous visit of our good friends, Andy and Jayne, from England.  While drinking my coffee this morning, I thought about all the great times we’ve had with Andy and Jayne, and in particular our visits to their place in the Loire Valley.  If you could have been a little bird, perched on a branch on any evening at Le Bois, what would you have seen and heard?  You would have seen a small collection of stone buildings, bathed in a golden light.  There would be a purple glow on the horizon as the sun set over a field of grain, with a warm breeze carrying the scent of fertile ground.  Coming from the vicinity of a large willow tree, you would have heard the slight tinkling of glasses – but more than anything you would have heard the sound of laughter.  If you’ve ever thought about visiting France; or if you’ve been to Paris and now want to explore other areas of France; or you just like thinking about a warm place at the end of a tough winter, then read on.

We first met Andy and Jayne in Jamaica.  Paula and I had decided to get away for a beach vacation – we were looking for a place we could just relax for a week; someplace warm and an all-inclusive.  I like the all-inclusive concept – even though I realize I might end up paying a bit more (yes, true.  Unless you drink like a fish, oftentimes it ends up cheaper to go “a la carte” so to speak, rather than all-inclusive), I really like the idea of checking in – not worrying about signing a bill or tipping, or even needing to carry my wallet for the week – and then settling up at the end.  We soon settled on the Sandals Royal Plantation, in Ocho Rios.  We checked in at the Sandals welcome center at Montego Bay, and were directed to have a seat, a drink, and wait for a few other folks that would be sharing the 2 hour van ride to Ocho Rios.  We didn’t wait long; 20 minutes later we were rounded up with a few others to follow the driver to van.  There was a porter steering an enormous luggage cart piled high with bags – which was odd as: (a) we were wheeling our own bags; and (b) one of the other two couples were wheeling their own.  Oh well, I thought – perhaps there are several other couples who are already waiting by the van.  Nope…no other people (Ok, I admit, the picture isn’t of the luggage cart – quite).  As we settled into the van, we met our ride-mates.  One couple was young, and clearly not too interested in anyone else.  The other were our age, and we struck up a conversation.  Andy and Jayne were British, from Hull, and on the end of a long holiday.  They had spent a week or so exploring the northeast US, and were now winding down with a beach week.  The luggage, as we found out, was theirs – packing light wasn’t one of their strong suits, but we all had a good laugh about it, and had a pleasant drive to the resort.  We soon became fast friends, and had a fantastic week on the beach.  We learned more about them – Andy had his own financial services business; Jayne operated a day care; they had two college age children; and, we learned, they owned Le Bois – a holiday “compound” in the Loire (pronounced “lwahr”) Valley.  The friendship blossomed, and invitations to get together again soon followed – we had them to our apartment in New York, and we all went to Jamaica again the following year.  As we were planning for a trip to Europe the next summer, Andy and Jayne suggested we spend a week with them in the Loire.  “The Loire”…”Spending a week in the Loire”…it sounded so posh…and lots of fun – we quickly agreed lest they decided to withdraw the offer!

The summer approached, and we began to get excited about our trip.  The plan was for us to fly to Paris, spend a few days there, then take a train to Le Mans where Andy and Jayne would pick us up and take us to their cottage compound in the Maine-et-Loire subregion of France.  This area of France is about 3 hours southwest of Paris.  This is a beautiful region of France, dotted with numerous Chateaux and stately homes, and bisected by the Loire river.  The valley’s terroir produces some lovely wines, particularly around the towns of Saumur and Chinon.  The landscape is characterized by rolling hills, forests, rural villages and agriculture. The area is still an important agricultural region of France, including significant beef, pork, poultry, milk and grains.  It is also well known for producing Cremant de Loire, a sparkling wine (essentially a Champagne – you can’t call it Champagne because only sparkling wines from Champagne can be called Champagne) made primarily from Chenin Blanc in this region.  The Cremant is wonderful and refreshing, with flavors of pear, lemon, and honey predominant.

After a nice weekend in Paris, we boarded the train for Le Mans.  Getting to this region is easy, either by car, train, or plane.  We opted for train, and were met by Andy and Jayne at the train station.  As it was near lunch time, they suggested we have lunch in Le Mans before heading to Meigne Le Vicomte, the small village near their cottages.  The day was spectacular – very warm and sunny – so we decided to sit outside.  Lunch (La Fou du Roy) was all you could want from France – fresh seafood, amazing wine, and slow pacing.  We shared some oysters – nearby Brittany is one of the worlds largest oyster producing regions, and the Breton oysters are not to be missed. The French are very particular about origin and provenance, especially for their seafood – and the restaurant was happy to tell us not only where the oysters were harvested, but when and by who.  Farm to table is part of their culture.  We reluctantly pushed ourselves from the table and headed to Loire Valley Gites, Jayne and Andy’s complex of cottages deep in the countryside.  A gite is the French term for a furnished vacation property for rent, typically in rural areas.  We wound our way through the landscape, passing through many small villages.  As we left the little village of Meigne le Vicomte, we turned down a country road, through a few fields and forests, before turning on to the entrance road to Le Bois, our home for the next week.

The 2-acre complex consisted of: Le Bois – the main house; La Bucheron – an adjacent cottage; the grounds; and several other barns and structures yet to be restored.  It’s a cozy setting, nestled in amongst the trees, and bordered by farmland.  When Andy and Jayne discovered the property, it was in considerable disrepair.  The original buildings dated from 1750, and comprised the center of a farm property.  The previous owner had made an initial start to try to renovate the property, but age and interest caught up with him.  Andy said they had been looking for a property for quite some time, but they knew immediately upon surveying the complex of falling down buildings that this was the one for them.  A multi-year renovation process resulted in the gites as they are today.  One unique and distinguishing characteristic of the buildings is the use of tuffeau stone, a local limestone.  The yellowish patina on the stone hints at the age of the structures, and drips with character.  Andy and Jayne wanted to maintain the original style of the buildings as much as possible – so while completely updated in terms of modern conveniences, the buildings exude ambiance.  Farm buildings of this style were typically built in a post and beam style, with large oak or chestnut timbers.  The inside of Le Bois is just spectacular – exposed beams throughout that have been restored, stained, and sealed.  I was very impressed with the upper level, where the exposed beams provide a loft-like feel in the bedrooms.  You need to be careful in a few areas not to bump your head on one of the cross-beams – one of the compromises of keeping the architectural integrity of the original structure.  But it all adds to the charm.  We opened the windows in our bedroom and unpacked.  While it was a very hot day, the room was cool – another feature of maintaining the original structure, which have thick walls that insulate the inside to a cool temperature.  The lilac scented breeze carried in the sounds of the countryside – a few songbirds, a distant tractor, and the peace and tranquility of this private setting.

And so, our first week at Le Bois began.  Each day settled into a routine.  Up early, Andy and I would head to the local bakery to get fresh croissant for breakfast.  The little bakery near Meigne Le Vicomte was run by an old couple who must get up at 3 am to prepare the day’s offerings!  You haven’t lived until you’ve experienced warm fresh croissants from a proper village bakery!  After coffee and croissant in the kitchen, we would plan the days activities.  There is a lot to do in this region, from visiting one of the many chateaux, to doing wine tours or even kayaking down the Loire river.  Or one of our favourite activities – just doing nothing!  Le Bois has a wonderful heated pool, and we spent several lazy days just hanging around in the pool.  One of our first visits was to market day in Langeais, a larger village about 25 minutes away.  Langeais has an outstanding medieval castle in its center, dominating the quaint village.  We love to explore local markets, and the one at Langeais was picture perfect.  Local farmers and assorted food producers from the region displayed their products and encouraged us to sample. Both cows and goats milk cheeses are made locally.  Selles-sur-Cher is a wonderful, slightly salty goats milk cheese.  Cure Nantais is an orange washed rind cows milk cheese with a fantastic smokey, almost bacony, flavor.  The charcuterie was even more local – various terrines, pates, and saucisson sec.  We soon found ourselves loaded down with lots of goodies to try back at Le Bois, along with various baguettes.  Andy and I share certain philosophies and views, and we both agreed that, as we were exercising regularly with trips back and forth from the house to the pool for more beer, we felt certain that the additional calories would not be an issue!  Another day we all visited a chateau called Chateau de Villandry.  It was originally built in the 14^th century.  The gardens were stunning – laid out in a Renaissance style, it was my favourite part of the visit (well, actually my favourite part was the lunch we had at La Doulce Terasse!).  The historic significance of this region is very prominent.  This was the center of the Duchy of Aquitaine, and the home of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine (famously portrayed by Peter O’Toole and Katherine Hepburn in The Lion in Winter).  When King Phillip of France was unsuccessful in peace negotiations with Henry II, his army, allied with Richard the Lionheart (Henry’s son – a true family dispute!), drove Henry in retreat through this region to Henry’s home in Chinon, where he died.  Henry II, his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine, and their son Richard the Lionheart are all buried at Fontevraud Abbey, near Chinon.  It’s another one of the many interesting things about this region.

We had many great lunches as we explored the region.  As we would typically spend the late afternoon and dinner at Le Bois, we reserved our local gastronomic explorations for lunchtime.  The French certainly know how to do lunch the proper way.  You are never rushed; wine is always part of the meal; and the food is always local.  Our typical pattern was to order the house wine – a tip I give to everyone, especially when you are travelling in wine producing regions.  The house wine will be what the locals drink; it will always be good; and it will always be the least expensive wine on the menu.  We were fortunate that the Loire valley produces some of the best wine in France.  While known primarily for white and rose wines, there are also good red wines, especially those near Chinon, in the St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil area.  During the day, we would generally stick with white or rose, chilled as it was very hot this time of year (August).  In the evening, at Le Bois, we would start with a nice sparkling Cremant, and then usually have a Bourgueil red wine (generally made from Cabernet Franc).  The wineries in this region are all small, and generally family owned and run.  There are numerous wine tours – Andy and Jayne usually worked in a tour or two when they were hosting family or friends (although Jayne doesn’t drink still wine, Andy picks up the slack for the Craggs family!).  One place which really stood out for us as outstanding food and value was Le Bouff’tard, a little unassuming restaurant in a small village called Hommes.  While not much to look at from the outside, the food, service, and value at Le Bouff’tard were exceptional.  We went twice, once on each of our two visits, and both times had the prix fixe lunch menu with house wine.  It was hard to believe that such good food could be served for under 16 euros per person.  We had other memorable lunches in Saumur and Chinon – usually some type of seafood from Normandy or Brittany, along with local produce.  It’s fun to explore this region of little villages.  Like we often do while travelling, we get the itch to look at local real estate and dream about converting a little farmhouse of our own.  We went out one day to look at a pretty little tuffeau stone cottage and associated barns, which had been partially restored, including an inviting swimming pool set within the foundation of an old ruin.  I was ready to buy then, and there – but Paula, who is the more rational of the two of us, brought me to my senses.  As we were leaving the grounds, Andy backed into a deep drainage on one side of the entrance road, and promptly got his rather expensive SUV stuck.  We all got out to have a look – noting the back driver-side wheel just hanging in mid-air, unable to gain traction.  We had visions of waiting hours for a tow truck, but for one of the few times in life, I was able to come to the rescue.  I noticed a large piece of timber lying in the opposite ditch, which I dragged over and wedged under the wheel.  With me pushing down for leverage, Andy was able to work the SUV out of its predicament…and Andy, bless his heart, dubbed me “Action Man” for coming to the rescue!  Unfortunately it’s a nickname I would never be able to live up to – sorry Andy!

Late afternoons at Le Bois revolved around either the pool, walking around the property, or hanging out in the house.  In the evening, we almost always ate al fresco, either on the back or front terrace.  Both areas had BBQ grills that Andy had installed for guests.  We prepared meals using local produce, always starting with cheese and charcuterie from our market trips, along with bread from the local bakery.  We had talked about doing pizza during one of our trips, and one day we decided to do it.  As both Andy and I have a competitive streak, we decided to each make a pizza and then have Jayne and Paula judge which was best.  I totally ignored form and tried to focus on simplicity and flavor.  Andy, being British, made sure his pizza was properly formed…that is, round – vs. my somewhat free form shape.  While the girls ultimately refused to crown a winner, I had to tip my hat to Andy’s more traditional shape!  On both of our trips, the week went by far too quickly, and it was soon time to say goodbye.  For us, and I’m sure for most of you as well, trips like these are always most memorable when we can share them with family or friends.  While these types of settings are beautiful by themselves, it’s the time spent with people you love that create long lasting memories.  The Loire isn’t necessarily the first area you will think of when considering or planning a trip to France.  Clearly, if its your first time in France, you’ll want to spend some days in Paris.  But I encourage you to consider visiting this often overlooked region.  Its affordable, and will really give you a strong sense of “going local”.  As we finished our quick weekend in Orlando visiting Andy and Jayne (who are on holiday in the US), it was great fun remembering the good times we had on these trips.  Thank you Andy and Jayne for the laughter, all of the lovely memories, and more to come.

Where to Stay

While there are many places to stay in the Loire Valley, I couldn’t recommend any place higher than Loire Valley Gites .  This wonderful complex features Le Bois, which is the main house and sleeps 6 in three bedrooms, including a large master bedroom with en suite.  The house has a large country kitchen, living room, and dining area.  Le Bucheron is an adjacent holiday cottage which sleeps an additional 4 people, and includes its own kitchen, dining, and living room.  The compound includes BBQ grills, a heated swimming pool, and is set on 2 very private acres in the French countryside near Meigne Le Vicomte.  The property is well maintained, and Andy and Jayne can help you plan your trip with lots of information on local things to do.

Where to Eat

Where do I begin on this one?!  There are so many little restaurants in this area that are worth going to, I hesitate to provide too much detail as you’ll want to explore on your own.  If you enter the region anywhere near Le Mans, I would highly recommend Le Fou du Roy (2 Impasse Sainte-Catherine, 72000 Le Mans, France).  It’s a small restaurant close to the cathedral and within a short tram ride from the train station – you may want to book in advance.  It’s worth a trip to the little village of Hommes to eat at La Bouff’tard (5 Place du Huit Mai, 37340 Hommes) – go for lunch and get the prix fixe – it will be the best value meal you find in this region.  In Chinon, I would recommend Bistrot de la Place (47 Place du Général de Gaulle, 37500 Chinon), which sits adjacent to a beautiful square with fountain.  In Saumur, we really enjoyed Le Grand Bleu  – the mussels we had here were fantastic.  Also near Saumur, try La Cave aux Moines for good food in a really interesting setting.  You’ll want to try mushrooms, of course – but also the Fouée bread that they are famous for.  Finally, I would recommend seeking out one of the many weekly markets in the region – buy some of the local food and eat al fresco somewhere nice.

What to Do

There are so many things to do that it would be difficult to come up with an exhaustive list.  You’ll want to visit some of the chateaux (castles) that the region is known for.  We liked Chateau de Villandry ; Chateau de Langeais ; and Chateau d’Usse .  There are lots of wineries to visit, and we found the winery at Langlois-Chateau to be particularly well run, with a great tasting room at the end.  If you are a history buff, you won’t want to miss the Fontevraud Royal Abbey near Chinon.  Founded in 1101, it is the final resting place of Henry II, Eleanor of Aquitaine, and Richard the Lionheart.  Finally, another fun thing to do, especially in the summer, is to kayak down the Loire.  The river is not that deep, and not extremely swift.  There are many places to rent the kayaks – we used Pole Nautique de Saumur.  Or just rent some bikes and enjoy the fresh air.

How to Get There

The Loire region is very accessible by car, rail, or air.  It’s a rural area, so you will need a vehicle to fully explore the region – don’t try to do this with public transportation.  Driving is very easy in France, and this region has a well-developed highway system.  If you are coming from the US, it will be easiest to fly into Paris.  From there, you can either rent a car and drive to the region (about 3 hours by car from Paris), or you can take a train to either Le Mans or Tours (train will be about 2 hours from Paris), and rent a car at these locations.  If you want to fly, the easiest would be to take a short flight from Paris to Nantes, and then rent a car at the airport.